“If you don’t notice an effect in x days, get your money back,” seems to be the catchphrase for cosmetic companies peddling their latest product on TV. While superficial effects may or may not be evident as the case may be, the deeper, more subversive effects of chemical compounds are far from attractive. Your favourite beauty product might lead to ugly results in the long run.

According to a ‘Global Cosmetics and Toiletries 2006’ study undertaken by Kline and Company, India is one of the fastest growing markets of cosmetics and toiletries in the world. Owing to the emergence of major national and international brands in the Indian market and a higher disposable income, the average Indian woman is spending more on cosmetics than ever before.

But this thirst for beauty better be backed by an awareness of what goes into your favourite product. And it’s not just specialised cosmetics like eyeliner and hair dye that are in question but products as basic as toothpaste and shampoo.

Chemicals such as SLS (sodium lauryl sulphate is a surfactant commonly found in shampoo, liquid soap, toothpaste), PPD (Phenylenediamine — found in hair dyes), DBP (Dibutylphthalate — found in nail polish and mascara), DEA (Diethanolamine — commonly found in shampoos), Formaldehyde (found in eye shadows, mascaras), if used in appreciable amounts, have been found to lead to fertility problems and even cancer in tests conducted on animals. 

According to Sudha Swamy (Superintendent Drug Testing Laboratory, Drugs Control Department, Karnataka) chemicals like SLS are fine if used in safe amounts. But isn’t this chemical dangerous? “It depends on the amount used. The ph is adjusted and the percentage used is very small.”

And what about foreign products? Swamy says, “All Indian cosmetics have to adhere to BIS norms. Foreign cosmetics are a problem though. There is no regulation other than the tests conducted on them in those countries.” “If a problem arises however, the laboratory conducts a test on the product. It also undertakes random sampling of products from time to time,” she adds.

Called propaganda by many companies that use these chemicals in their products, the battle between awareness groups and major giants has been going on for a long time now. One can choose to overlook this information or shift loyalties to chemical-free cosmetics, the choice lies with the consumer in the end. So the next time you make a trip to the mall, read the small print behind that ‘mild and natural’ personal care product; you might see a few ingredients that surprise you.