Can one imagine an Indian bride without elaborate jewellery? On occasions like weddings and other related festivals, Indian women prefer the traditional and the ethnic look. Traditional crafting in gold, precious stones and diamonds in meenakari, kundankari, kundan and thewa, has been an integral part for all festivals and family-oriented occasions. Now these old-style jewellery is back with a bang. 

Period jewellery is back not only in our country but also abroad for its sheer beauty and rich history. For an NRI, it is a matter of pride and for non-Indians it is a slice of Indian culture; an experience of going back to an era long gone when the kings and queens ruled the country.

Add to it Bollywood’s influence promoting traditional jewellery, the result is there to see. Fashion shows by Indian designers in hubs like Milan and New York and the increasingly popular Bollywood films have taken Indian jewellery beyond the shores of our country bringing alive the richness of our heritage.

Sanjay Leela Bhansali's Devdas, Pradip Sarkar’s Parineeta, Bengali films Chokher Bali and  Antarmahal by Rituparno Ghosh all have created a strong appeal for handcrafted Bengali jewellery.

Traditional Rajasthani jewellery designs have got a boost in modern times with Shahrukh Khan's Om Shanti Om, and now  Ashutosh Gowariker’s Jodhaa Akbar. As a result, there is a great demand for Chokher Bali earrings, Parineeta necklaces, Devdas armlets and waistbands, Shantipriya hairpins (courtesy OSO) with attached jhumkas and last but not the least, Jodhaa Akbar's jadau and kundan collection.

Ornaments with kundan work, famously from Rajasthan, are combined with enamelling, so that the particular piece of jewellery has two equally beautiful surfaces — the precious stones set on the front side and enamelling at the back. Necklaces are attached to strips of velvet, which not only proves comfortable but also prevents friction with skin and at the same time preserves the enamel. “Traditional kundan jewellery is extremely practical and that’s why it never goes out of fashion," says jewellery designer Rashmi Chawcharia of Kolkata.
Indeed, Bollywood serves as a perfect platform for India's ethnic jewellery. Opulent sets, the colourful six yards that create the magic of the saree, coupled with beautiful jadau and kundan jewellery, create an  aura that is hard to resist. With this new interest, a different segment of jewellery researchers have emerged who turn out authentic period pieces. It is also a welcome change to see the focus shifting from Italian setting of the stones to the Indian way of setting which is more jadau and thewa. Monica Chawala who stays in New York finds it heartening to see American and French women wearing jadau necklaces, hathphool and belly chains with their western attires.
 Period jewellery for films like Parineeta, Chokher Bali and Antarmahal were designed by Kolkata-based jewellery house Anjali Jewellers. Since then, claim the management, women have been clamouring for copies of the pieces. Even visitors to the city look out for the designer outlet. Says Ananya Chowdhury, proprietor, “After these films, the store recorded a rise in demand for elaborate anklets and accessories like tikli, armbands, waistband and of course, big round earrings." And then, it is not the ritualistic bangles and necklaces alone that women want today; the demand is for complete 'accessorisation.'  Sarpech (feather pin), archer's ring, arsi (mirror ring), bhor (head jewel like the  tikka), hasuli (choker), rakhri (bracelet),  bajuband (armlet), gajra (hair accessory) are getting increasingly popular. In Jodhaa Akbar, one gets to see all these accessories, says an employee of Tanishq in Kolkata. The designer label has turned out all the beautiful jewellery in the film and it now even uses the tagline proudly in its ads.

Elaborate pieces

Hathphool, a hand accessory with five rings interconnected with slender gold chains, and nath or nose ring, are in big demand especially from the foreigners.

Some pieces are quite heavy like elaborate necklaces, moph chains, chokers and old Bengali designs like patihaar, sitahaar, kaan pasha and jhumkas. Bangles, studded wristbands and ornate hairpins, waist rings, amulets, however, can be worn at any time or perhaps one at a time to blend perfectly with the attire. Meanwhile, light accessories like hairpins, ornate safety pins, brooches etc can define a style statement if accessorised correctly.

 Besides the visual and historical appeal, Indian jewellery has an emotional significance too. Today, wearing Indian jewellery pieces with western wear is no fashion hara-kiri either. You can safely match a jadau choker, Bollywood kundan earrings, elephant-head bangles, belly chains, hair accessories, mang tikkas, anklets etc. with your western couture.

The same goes for men. The ear studs, bracelets, neck pieces, cuff links and even armlets are all there to choose from for the fashionable guy. All this proves that old is still gold, literally.