Our visit to Durban  took us to a part of world history, Mahatma Gandhi’s home in South Africa where he lived for 21 years and where the seeds of both the Indian and South African freedom movements were sown.

The drive was through some of the affluent parts of Durban. The opulence gave way to humble dwellings and then to small shanties. Up on a tiny hill overlooking this modest part of the city was the Phoenix Settlement and the buildings that were home to Gandhi, his family and work.

A bust of Gandhiji under a canopy was the centre of attraction around which was ‘Sarvodaya’, Gandhi’s original house, now a museum where photos of Gandhi and his work with the stalwarts of India and South Africa were exhibited. Pictures with Tagore, an endearing letter written to Tagore and a framed replica of the only poem titled A Servant’s Prayer by Gandhi were there.

The African curator of Gandhiji’s settlement, Borgani Mthembu lovingly related the history of the region in fluent English and  deep reverence. “In 1893, Mahatma Gandhi came to South Africa on the invitation of the Muslim community.

As he saw the condition of the people he was encouraged to start a tabloid The Indian Opinion – The Voice of Mahatma Gandhi, as it was called. It was printed in Hindi, English, Gujarati and Tamil,” informed Mthembu as he took us to the printing press adjoining the house.

The ancient machines now stood as a mute reminder of those struggling days. The background of the Phoenix Settlements and its Trust is for Gandhism to be alive in the lives of the people of Durban and South Africa. “The Phoenix Settlement located in Inanda on the north-western edge of Durban was founded by Mahatma Gandhi in 1904 as a non-racial community, committed to experimenting with Satyagraha in personal, social, economic and political spheres.

Phoenix was the first of Mahatma Gandhi’s ashrams and became the beacon that guided the development of all other ashrams. The desire of the Phoenix Settlement Trust is to help create physical and social structures on Phoenix Settlement which will reflect the basic philosophy of its founder, Mahatma Gandhi and benefit the community living in the area and South Africa as a whole,” informed Mthembu.

The Phoenix Settlement comprises 100 acres with  buildings clustered together on a small hill in the centre of the property. These buildings are the International Printing Press, Mahatma Gandhi Museum and Library, Kasturbhavan – the house built and lived in by Gandhi’s son Manilal and his family, Kasturba Gandhi Primary School with 14 classrooms, Shanti built by the Girl Guides Movement and Phoenix Settlement Trust and the Mahatma Gandhi Health Clinic.

“With the exception of the library museum, clinic and Shanti all of the above buildings were badly damaged during the unrest in the area in August 1985. Sarvodaya, Gandhi’s original house was completely destroyed,” stated Mthembu.

 Now there are approximately 8000 people living there. This whole area has come to be known as Bhambayi which was the centre of fierce fighting between rival political groups from early 1988 to April 1999. The area is now relatively peaceful and the two rival groups are now talking to one another and the refugees are beginning to return. The Museum and Library building were rebuilt in 2000 and are used by the local community. Today the settlement is run by donations and the vision of the Phoenix Settlement Trust is for Gandhism to be alive in the lives of people.

 “The first step for the Trust in realising this vision is the reconstruction of the Phoenix Settlement. The Trust has invited the reconstruction and development programme components of the national and provincial government Parliament to assist in this process,” revealed Mthembu.

A dream that Gandhiji visualised has now turned into a long-time project that will help the people living in the area.