Are the office going men ready to bling? Retailers — from the mass-market Prince Jewellers of Chennai to the venerable Tribhuvandas Zaveri of Mumbai — are hoping so, as a new generation of ordinary guys under 40, are warming up to such trinkets as titanium pendants, three-diamond rings, silver dog tags and ID bracelets.
According to Sameer Sagar at West End Jewellers in Mumbai, the male buyer falls into three categories: "The ‘heavy type’ are the ones who wear solid rings and chains with perhaps a Rolex and a solitaire or maybe some earstuds; the ‘sober type’ choose a quieter design, with a little more focus on workmanship, and finally, the ‘devotional type’, who seeks iconic images." Sagar estimates that 15 per cent of the jewellery he sells is for men.
The fashion is to craft a number of understated, masculine jewel pieces in silver and titanium steel — some studded with tiny diamonds. Jewellery designer Mohan Bhavnani of Mumbai says the typical male jewellery customer is between 18 and 45 and adds "This is definitely a generational fad.”
That may help explain why retailers are taking a subtle marketing approach. At its flagship store in Mumbai, Acme jewellers put its lines of silver amulets and stones on leather cords alongside the denim and sportswear display. On the main floor, where the pinstripe clientele roam, only classic watches and cufflinks are on display.
Madho Chandra of Prashant jewellers of Mumbai says "Of late, men have started wearing silver, diamond and even platinum. Some wear jewellery as part of status symbol to show off their opulence. The trend of wearing birth stones is really on the rise."
Pradip Chandra of New Era Jewellers of New Delhi comments "These days men are keen to have a good physique. And they wear jewellery that suits their style. The ‘one-earring look' and the chains and bracelets on finely toned bodies of hunks on the ramp always get noticed.”
"Many exotic styles for men are generally created by filmstars like Salman Khan, Hrithik Roshan and Aamir Khan. The youngsters like to follow what their idols wear on screen," believes Rajiv Chandran of of Josco Fashion Jewellery. in Chennai.
Chairman of Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council Of India Mr Bakul R Mehta feels that Indian men have traditionally used jewellery, but its use as a fashion statement is something that’s new.
Maharaja Features