We were at the spot ‘where the earth ends and the sea begins’. Much eulogised by the Portuguese bard, Luis de Camoes, in the Lusiadas, it was here many a man — from times too long to remember — stood and contemplated the scene before him.
To be sure, atop this cliff a gentle breeze played on his face, and a serene endless iridescent sheet of water glistened against streaks and puffs of white clouds in the large expanse of blue sky. At other times, angry and dark skies hurled thunderbolts and pelted rain at him. Yet the beauty and wonder of the sea remained.
The rocky land 140 metres below, continues to collide with the ocean - in turn tenderly or ferociously but always, spectacularly.
There are many ways to reach the end of the world. Bus number 403 from Cascais. Motor bikes for the adventurous. Then, there are athletic visitors who do it huffing and puffing pedaling mountain bicycles. We took the easy out last September. A Merc whisked us up the narrow, winding and sometime torturous route. However you do it and however many a time you do it, the driver told us, the journey is always stunning.
Scenic beauty
The old, familiar settings of the urban jungle get left behind, townscapes shaken off, and as the ‘wilderness’ is ascended, crammed is an improbable amount of scenery - valleys speckled with quaint farmhouses and cottages, blankets of pines climbing steep hills, a series of superb beaches, and the horizon ‘a jagged perforation’ against a picture perfect blue sky.
Ahead and above, a lighthouse came into view. This is the much touted feral isolation of land’s end, the cape where Europe ends. Occupied by the Romans until 5 AD, this westernmost extreme of the continental mainland, was referred to as ‘Promontorium Magnum’.
A further climb on the unwinding rocky road delivered us to the white cape, Cabo da Roca, and a cluster of maritime installations. A weather-beaten monument with a stone plaque gave us our location coordinates. The quiet elegance and calmness were striking.
Exotic flora and fauna hold the visitors’ attention. It’s a haven for ornithologists and nature lovers. The cliffs abound with cute and beautiful birds such as the guillemot, the warbler, a variety of herons and egrets, white storks and the raptor, Águia-Saperia, Pintaroxo, Petinha and the rare Ferreirinha of the Alps — all named in a thoughtfully placed sign-board surrounded by an amazing range of pleasing flowers, plants and landscape.
Day trip setting
Nearby is a superb, west-facing beach with some of ‘the best winds and waves in Portugal’. Taking advantage of the elements this afternoon were sprightly youngsters expertly kite-surfing.
We were above the Atlantic, on the edge of a towering cliff, and had an imposing lighthouse, and a granite needle - Ponto Mais Ocidental do Continente Europeu in close quarters. A day-trip setting, many global travelers swear is tough to beat.
Portuguese Riviera                                                                                                                                                     
The compact picturesque region west of Lisbon that comprises Cabo da Roca, Sintra, Cascais, Estoril, and Queluz with their ‘upscale resorts, peaceful rural retreats and romantic palaces and manor houses’, and temperate climate for most parts of the year is the Portuguese Riviera, a must-see, a must-do for visitors.
This region is the famous haunt of the super rich. Earlier, in the first half of the 20th century, European dictators, royalties, nobility and others fallen on bad times, took refuge in the place. Thanks to the warm hospitality of the local government, the once high and mighty were treated with dignity and respect.
As an upshot, they came in droves to escape popular up-risings in their homelands to settle in, build posh new residences - mostly by the side of the river Tagus’ estuary.
One such town, Estoril has been dubbed ‘the playground of kings’ due to its proximity to white sandy beaches, inexpensive living and armies of low cost domestic help, and glitz and glamour of Europe’s most chic and largest casinos.
Today, the lively Portuguese Riviera has grandiose villas, smart 1,000-berth marinas, challenging golf courses, Formula One Portuguese Grand Prix, Olympic Classes Sailing Championship, casinos, night clubs, and umbrella-covered sidewalk cafes. Between Cabo da Roca and Lisbon are the once sleepy fishing village of Cascais and its golden beach. This area has a number of jet-setters.
From being an exclusive summer vacation resort for the ‘moneyed classes’ of Europe, the place today is open to anyone around the world. Presently Estoril, Cascais and their surroundings enjoy the reputation of a great holiday destination without burning huge holes in the pocket.
Despite the visiting fun-seekers, the black and white mosaic paved Cascais stays true to its tradition as an active fishing port.
Men and their boats line the beach, and the day's catch can be bought fresh at the market. In the morning, we stopped by sun-bathers and playful children, and an atmosphere that was decidedly picturesque and relaxed greeted us.
Cascais is no great shakes as a historical or cultural centre. For that, one needs to head a short distance northward towards Sintra and Queluz.
Seafood galore
Enroute we stopped at Furnas do Guincho restaurant famous for its sea food. Bold sea gulls sat outside the window on rocks. Roaring waves slamming their rocky perches didn’t deter them. We snacked on cheese, olives, steamed prawns and mayonnaise, assorted breads and yet later dined, on the house specialty, salt molded sea bass, shellfish paella, and mussels.
The glorious Eden
On an elevated plateau, about 10 km east of Cabo da Roca, is the hill-station of Sintra. As we climbed the steep road, the scent of the mountains, of eucalyptus and pine trees engulfed us.
It is in this botanical paradise the poet, Lord Byron once resided, and called the area ‘the glorious Eden’ and ‘the prettiest village in Europe’. The place abounds in historical interest and charm with streets and shops reminiscent of ‘Dickensian’ London, romantic palaces, fountains, and horse-drawn carriage tours.
Sintra identifiable by its white twin tall conical chimneys is famous for its architecturally-rich Royal Palace. Built about six centuries ago, it came up over a former Moorish one. The tiny city’s most famous landmark is the controversial gift of King Ludwig to his consort, the Pena Palace - complete with ‘impressive drawbridge, towers, battlements and daintily furnished royal chambers’.
Between June 1 and July 15, an enchanting and grand summer music and dance gala, the Festival de Sinatra, is held in Sintra.
We explored the quaint little village-town’s lively streets replete with pastelaria or food kiosks, restaurants and shops, eating hot chestnuts off the coals from a push cart vendor, before heading back to Lisbon.
Even as we drove into the stillness of the evening, the air and peacefulness of the Portuguese Riviera came flooding with its bright and refreshing atmosphere, stunning sea and land vistas. It was an unforgettable day in a most unforgettable place … where the earth ends and the sea begins. 
Useful websites: www.visitportugal.com and www.c-portugal.com/lisboncoast/estoril.htm