We have all tasted and compared notes of the variations of chaat and bhel we’ve had while criss-crossing our cities. But happily, any talk of street food in India does not end with just the chaat and bhel. Let’s take you to Sarafa gali in Ahilyabai Holkar’s erstwhile princely state of Indore. In an ode to the brave queen, the gali (lane) runs around her famous palace in the heart of a busy commercial hub of Indore, the second largest city of Madhya Pradesh.

Visit it during the day only if you have a full wallet and are in the mood to spend on gold and silver. In the afterhours, it is quite another story. But keep the wallet heavy nonetheless. Cinderella like, Sarafa transforms into what the locals describe to outsiders as ‘khane-pene wali gali.’ The jewellery shops give way to makeshift stalls where large iron woks balanced on blazing stoves have a habit of triggering the passerby’s salivary glands.

There’s a sort of unsaid routine followed by visitors to Sarafa gali. The first obeisance in this gastronomic journey begins with the Joshi ke dahi vade. Hmmm! The vadas just melt in your mouth, its sweet/tangy and spicy chutney burning and soothing it at the same time; while the chilled dahi is just right with it’s sour quotient.

After this, just follow your nose. Mine invariably takes me first to the garadu stall. The garadu (you can recognise it with its other names like Jamikand, Suran, Elephant yam) is cut into thin rectangles and deep fried. It is then garnished with a ‘secret’ masala powder that does the trick. Nothing much to look at, but my tastebuds sure do a merry jig. The aroma of the asafoetida in the moong dal vade, that the halwai has just sieved out from the hot oil may well find your nose. Follow it, for you will not be disappointed. The red and green chutney makes these humble dal vade heavenly.

If you happen to visit Indore in the monsoons, which is right now, do not give Sarafa a miss. For this is the season of bhutta (corn) and I guarantee you will not have tasted this delectable mouth-watering recipe of the corn called bhutte ka kiss. Sounds like an aphrodisiac? Not really, for the ‘kiss’ of the bhutta merely refers to the action of grating the uncooked corn. This is then slow-cooked with a little creamy milk, jeera, besan, chilli powder, and garnished with coriander and green chillies. Taste it, it is sure to add to the excitement of being in the right place at the right time.

For my extended family of brothers and sisters, cousins and aunts and uncles, and even neighbours, (you never go to Sarafa alone) this was just the appetizer. If you are fond of dry fruits and consider its combination with milk divine, then the Shikanji is your answer. My nose, instead, takes me to the sabudana khichadi counter. This ‘fast’ food (many consume sabudana when they are fasting) is another favourite. Then, of course, not to be passed by are the stalls selling chilla (thin pancakes made of moong dal, and stuffed with finely-sliced onions and green chillies) served with red and green spicy chutneys. I’d like to call it a night after this, but if you still have the space, hot jalebis or malpuas would be the right note to end your sojourn.

Just one tip, avoid the Chinese noodles and gobhi manchurian stalls — a recent addition I’m sure, thanks to satellite television.

‘Living in the Kitchen’ is a fortnightly column about the gastronomic delights of the globe. Food enough for thought, we hope! Send us your responses and suggestions to dhliving@gmail.com