G Brindha tours Udaipur in Rajasthan and is impressed by its scenic lakes and the palaces
that stand beside them.
We are having dinner in the lobby of Lake Pichola Hotel which is on the banks of the famous lake Pichola.
Udaipur’s distinguished monuments are visible from this hotel. Both sides of the lake are lined up with palaces, cottages and resorts. The waters of the Pichola lake glistens in the darkness with the lights emanating from the buildings. The hotel we’re staying in is itself a heritage structure, a haveli, more than a century old.
All the rooms in the place are traditional, with old fixtures and furnishings but commodious. I settle into my room with a book on the bygone era. Next morning I come to the balcony to have a wonderful sight of the sun-kissed domes of the city palace which is diamentrically opposite to ours on the other side of the lake.
At a distance, the lake opens into a big waterbody and in the middle is the milky white, much famed Lake Palace. Pichola seems to be a busy lake. Launches carrying tourists ferry up and down the lake.
A vehicle is in attendance at the portico. I slouch into the backseat of the AC Santro which carries me to the city Palace through lanes and bylanes. I seldom see a camel. After a ten-minute drive I alight before the Palace Complex.
The City Palace once entirely the home of Mewar rulers, is today largely a museum run by the Maharana Mewar Foundation. It actually consists of four major and several minor palaces forming a single breathtaking facade overlooking the Pichola Lake.
Claimed to be the largest palace complex in Rajasthan, this white architectural marvel stands on an elevation and is surrounded by crenellated walls. This gargantuan structure started by Udai Singh was added on to by the later Ranas (till 20th century) but the annexes are so well planned and integrated, it is incredible that it was not conceived as a complete structure.
Impregnable fort
From the outside, the palace resembles nothing so much as a formidable Rajput Fort with sheer impregnable walls rising high out of the water, broken only near the top by an exuberance of domes, arches, cupolas and turrets.
We approach the palace through ‘Hati Pol’ along the main street of the old city. The Bara Pol takes us into the first court leading to the Tripolia Gate which which has eight marble porticos. The Maharanas were weighed under the gate in gold, the equivalent amount of which was distributed to the indigents.
Now we walk through a amazing series of courtyards, overlapping pavilion terraces, corridors and hanging gardens - themselves so decorated and embellished as to be the museum pieces.
In the museum are paintings depicting incidents in the life of Rana Pratap. His armour, weapons and other memorabilia are also on display. Mor Chowk has exquisite mosaics of peacocks while Manak Mahal exhibits mirrorwork and porcelain.
Krishna Vilas has a vast collection of miniatures. The Chinik Chitrasala is attractive with its blue and white ceramics and the wall paintings of Lord Krishna’s life at Bhim Vilas Palace command attention.
It takes nearly half a day to see the Palace Complex and the museum. In the evening I go for boating. Lake Pichola has a perfect setting for those taking a boat ride.
Tourist attraction
The first edifice which we come across is Jag Niwas. Better known as Lake Palace, it is regarded as one of the most beautiful palaces in the world and the mere sight of this white wonder rising from the turquoise waters of Lake Pichola is dream-like. It could well be termed as the major reason for putting the city on the international tourist circuit.
Built by Jagat Singh in 1754, it used to be a pleasure palace for the royal family in summers. Today it is a five star heritage hotel. Eulogised as one of the most romantic creations of man, this palaise keeps away the casual visitors and those not staying there can come only for a meal (Rs.1500 per meal).
Our gondola next proceeds to Jag Mandir. The first island palace of the Lake Pichola, Jagmandir was built by Jagat Singh in 1620 AD and was intended to be a pleasure palace for regal parties and functions. It has served as a refuge for Emperor Shahjehan when he was a prince against the wrath of his father.
It has also sheltered many European families during the Sepoy Mutiny in 1857. The island has some elegant stone carvings, a big row of elephants, a chhatri made of grey blue stone and ample courtyards, trees and flowers and domes.
Next day we covered some eye-soothing places. Fateh Sagar lake is the most beautiful lake in the city and is located to the north of Lake Pichola. It is dotted by hills and woodlands. Nehru Garden in the middle of the lake can be accessed by colourful boats. Udaipur has lot of gardens also.
Dowry gift
A mention should be make of Sahelion Ki Bari, a beautiful ‘Bagh’ on the banks of FS lake. As the name itself suggests it was built for 48 maidens meant to be a part of the dowry of the princes.
Widespread lawns gushing fountains and dappled walking lanes characterise the gardens. It has four pools with graceful kiosks and fountains that sport elephant trunks for spouts.
The fountains are fed by the waters of the FS lake and each water conduit has its distinct sound and the mingling of these sounds complements the ambience of the place. Erected atop Moti Magri near FS lake is an impressive equestrian bronze statue of Rana Pratap and his Chetak. Locals climb the hill to pay homage to the two heroes.
Crystal Gallery houses an excellent collection arrayed in a balcony overlooking the Durbal Hall of Fateh Prakash Palace (a part of City palace complex). Resplendent light radiate through the corridors as we look at the collection of crystals.
There are sofas, beds, thrones and chairs made of solid crystal, with the barest metal support where necessary.
The wealth of the royal families and the grand parties they gave is seen in the innumerable rows of crystal wine glasses carrying the coat of arms of Mewar.
FACT FILE
*Romantic eat-outs
The most sought after is the terrace of Jagat Niwas Palace Hotel which overlooks the lake. Lake Palace Hotel in the middle of the lake is the most fascinating place to satisfy your palate. ‘Ambrai’ near Chand Pol, is also an excellent open-air option on the bank of Lake Pichola.
Rajasthani and Gujarati specialities can be had in Garden Restaurant and Santhosh Dal Bhojanalaya. South Indian delicacies are available at Purohit Cafe, near Gulab Bagh. Some restaurants offer vada and sambar near Chetak cinema.
*By Air: Maharana Pratap Airport (25 km) is connected by daily flights to Mumbai, Delhi and Jaipur. Tourists from South India should come via Ahmedabad (280 km).
*By Train: Udaipur is connected to most of the places in Rajasthan. Daily trains are available from Ahmedabad and Delhi. South bound travellers have to choose Ahmedabad.
*By Road: It falls on NH8 route from Delhi to Mumbai.
We are having dinner in the lobby of Lake Pichola Hotel which is on the banks of the famous lake Pichola. 
The City Palace once entirely the home of Mewar rulers, is today largely a museum run by the Maharana Mewar Foundation. It actually consists of four major and several minor palaces forming a single breathtaking facade overlooking the Pichola Lake. 
Now we walk through a amazing series of courtyards, overlapping pavilion terraces, corridors and hanging gardens - themselves so decorated and embellished as to be the museum pieces. 
