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Deccan Herald » Sunday Herald » Detailed Story
Travel accounts from Harsil
Shishir Prashant
Harsil perched at a height of 2600 metres is also an important stopover on the way to Gangotri and Gomukh, from where the holy river Bhagirathi originates...

Cool climes, the unnatural rush of winds, salubrious surroundings, apple orchards and a turbulent Bhagirathi river flowing in full ferocity – all in one place called Harsil. Nestled in the sky kissing mountains of Garhwal Himalayas, this quiet place is emerging as a top tourist destination in India though it remains snowbound during the winter.

Harsil perched at a height of 2600 metres is also an important stopover on the way to Gangotri and Gomukh, from where the holy river Bhagirathi originates. Mukhba is another pilgrim centre near Harsil, which is also the wintry sojourn of Gangotri deity.

Here, pilgrims offer prayers at the Gangotri temple during six months from November-April.

And when the doors of the main Gangotri temple are reopened during the summers, the palanquin of the deity is being taken in a procession from Mukhba to Gangotri amidst a big fanfare.

If you are travelling to Gangotri, it is generally advised to stay at Harsil at least for one full day. Besides hotels and government guesthouses, scores of camp accommodations are also available.

Film connection
Not very far away from Harsil, there is another scenic point just on walking distance called Mandakini Point. Interestingly, it was at this place the legendary director Raj Kapoor shot some parts of his famous movie Ram Teri Ganga Maili. And remember that famous song Kohre Ki Chadar Lapete Hoon… it was filmed exactly at this point.

So the place has now been aptly named as ‘Mandakini Point’ obviously after the former Bollywood actor, who stole the show in that sensuous song.

Recently, a glacier from the mountaintop slid down the Mandakini Point blocking the trek from Harsil. Anyway, it is a sight to watch irrespective of the film being shot there.

Harsil is also known for its apple orchards and a beautiful Wilson bungalow. Some of the delicious varieties of apples are found in Harsil.

Harsil is well connected by taxis and buses from Rishikesh. One can reach Rishikesh via Haridwar which is well connected by  rail.

The best time to visit this place is September when one can taste fully ripened apples. Moreover, if one plans to go to Gomukh, the main source of origin of Bhagirathi river, September is indeed the best time.

Legend says...
Coming back to Wilson bungalow, this magnificent wooden house was constructed by Frederick E Wilson, a deserted British Army officer in 1864. The story of Wilson has been immortalised in Harsil. Wilson, an adventurer, travelled in the Garhwal Himalayas extensively.

According to locals, he fell in love with a local woman Gulabi and lived in this house for several years. He also became a proud father of two sons.     

Wilson is also being revered here as “Raja” or king in Harsil, a remote idyllic valley. Unfortunately, few years back, a fire engulfed the Wilson bungalow made of deodar wood and reduced it to ashes. Now, the government is rebuilding the house to its pristine glory. But experts say, that the original architecture was far more beautiful as well as superior.

Haunted?
Workers these days are busy giving final touches to the house. It is generally believed that the house is haunted with the ghost of Wilson. But no one has seen the ghost till now.

Large, juicy apples, first      introduced by Wilson in Harsil, are now being sold by the locals to travelers and pilgrims. Wilson may be dead but his legacy still lives on amidst the towering deodars and pines of Harsil. But what about Wilson’s ghost? Well, such tales are common in the hills.

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