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Deccan Herald » Hi Life » Detailed Story
The OLIVE
You can't do without oil. As more and more Indians scour the market for the best cooking grease, olive oil emerges as the preferred option for the discerning buyer, says Benita Sen

Read up any history of the Mediterranean region and chances are, there will be a mention of the olive (Olea europaea L.). It is one of the oldest trees ever mentioned and over time, the olive has been associated with myth and history, faith and fact.

Goddess Athena is said to have brought the olive tree to Attica , later named Athens after her by its grateful citizens. The Mediterranean region is replete with references to this munificent tree. The trees on the Mount of Olives in Jerusalem are believed to be over 2,000 years old.

The olive branch has been a symbol of peace since the Ancient Greek civilisation. The Biblical white dove that Noah released from his ark is said to have carried an olive twig in its beak. As trees go, you couldn't get the credentials any more impeccable. That's the stuff that inspired Homer to call it liquid gold.

For good reason
The only fruit oil, olive oil is not extracted by chemical solvents. It is, in fact, processed in much the same way it has been for thousands of years, with little concession to technology. Olives are crushed soon after they are picked or beaten down, so that there is no fermentation. In place of the stone mills of yore, modern mills are powered by electricity. It requires no chemical additive. Anything from four to nine kg of olives may be pressed for a litre of oil.

Some like’em whole
Not all olives are crushed for oil. About one in ten finds its way on the table. That's 1,500,000 metric tones olives a year. The fruit that is served up at the table is among the best. It is picked by hand so that the fruit is intact.
It needs to be of good size, without the stone being too large and of course, of a good taste. Table olives come in predominantly three colours: green, berry and black. But most harvested olives need to be treated to make them edible. That's why they are put through an alkaline treatment and packed in brine. Some have herbs added to the brine. They are classified according to the quality of the fruit. The Second or Standard fruit is the least preferable. First, Select or Choice are fruit with minor defects. The premium quality is labelled Extra or Fancy.

 India bound
With the economy opening the floodgates of global lifestyles, the table olive and olive oil have entered even middle class Indian homes. Although one importer declared that the largest consumers of olive oil is around Uttar Pradesh, where it is used widely as a massage oil, the oil and the fruit are beginning to sit pretty on our tables as well. According to the International Olive Council headquartered in Madrid , Spain, "the new purchasing power combined with traditional awareness of the benefits of natural and vegetarian products offers a great chance to enhance the consumption of olive oil and table olives in India , which is the largest importer of vegetable oils in the world." Aha!

There you are. Even while our tastebuds begin to register the difference between green and black table olives, and far before we reach prime consumption, India, by sheer dint of numbers, emerges as a trailblazer. There must be several out there calculating the  potential of converting more Indian consumers to olives!

Indian olives?
Olives may have sprouted first in Asia Minor . But that was over six millennia back. It then spread all along the Mediterranean . And then, it spread to Europe: Spain and Portugal got their first saplings after the third Punic War. About 550 years ago, the first olive plant landed in the Americas via the West Indies . Today, you'd find olive trees in Africa, Japan, China and Australia. And yes, even a few in India. The Italian Embassy in Delhi planted a few olive trees. More extensively, it has been planted in Rajasthan.

However, the results are nothing to write home about. Yet. But the olive is a tree of hope. And no harm hoping that we may soon nibble into the first commercial crop of Indian olives.

Oil from fruit

When you're told olive oil is good for you, it's said with reason. Up to 83 per cent of the fatty acid in olive oil is monounsaturated oleic acid. It has antioxidants and vitamins that help fix free radicals and therefore, make it a great cholesterol and cancer-buster.

The richer the content of anti oxidants, in fact, the more pungent the oil. It lowers triglycerides and LDL or bad cholesterol and raises HDL or good cholesterol. That makes it a good choice for those out to battle cardiovascular damage, specially since it also lowers blood pressure. It is good for artery health and prevents arteriosclerosis. This lowers the fear of stroke and heart disease. It can also help prevent Type 2 diabetes, since it is less likely to cause obesity and is helpful in treating insulin resistance.

The Mediterranean diet relies heavily on olive oil and that may be one reason pushing up overall lifespans and less problems of age-related dementia.

Keep with care
Check the date on the bottle of olive oil. It is best consumed within 22 months from that date. Keep the bottle away from light and heat. If you buy the oil in large quantities, transfer to small bottles and keep them in glass containers.   

No smell here
Olive oil is believed to leave its own distinctive flavour and odour in food. "It has a peculiar taste, so I'd rather keep it to dress salads and as a massage oil," says Anita Rana, a banker who does some of her own cooking. But as many who have cooked with it would vouch, it poses no problems with Indian recipes. "We use spices that are strong enough in flavour not to be distracted by olive oil," says homemaker Sunita Singh of Delhi .

She has been using the cooking medium for some months now. Even Chef Sanjeev Kapoor uses olive oil in his home kitchen. However, do not heat it beyond smoking point or 1,800 C when it forms trans-fats. However, go moderate on the oil. Whether olive or any other, too much of anything never did anyone too much good.

This way and that
Most of us limit the use of olive oil to a salad dressing or a massage. However, it makes a healthier option if you're baking. Olive oil can replace shortening like butter in cakes, pastries and breads. 
Virtually every Indian dish can be made with olive oil: shorba, lamb and chicken, biryani and dahi gujia: the choice is yours.

Olives can be eaten as an appetizer, as they often are in Spain and Italy .

If the price of olive oil puts you off, despair not. "Canola oil is a sound alternative," assures Parul Dube, Bangalore-based Public Health Nutritionist. Similar to olive oil, 70 per cent of it is made up of monounsaturated fatty acids, which makes it "fantastic for the health of the heart." As she points out, it is a local product and easily available. Whatever oil you choose, do remember, 15 gms (three teaspoons) is what you should allow yourself per day. "That is the Recommended Dietary Allowance (RDA)," reminds Dube.  

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