Vivek M visits the Jamalabad Fort, in Dakshina Kannada district, which Tipu Sultan fondly named after his mother Jamalbee.
Although the lush forests of Karnataka’s Western Ghats offer a terrain of unsullied nature and addictive adventure, not many of the trek routes pass through places of historical importance. So, on a weekend, with a small rucksack and lot of enthusiasm I set out on an adventure that promised to take me on one such uncommon journey.
Within a few minutes of a rickety bus travel from Belthangady, the chocolate brown granite slopes of Jamalabad came into my sight. These towering rocks stood out from the ubiquitous dark green foliage of the Kudremukh National Park and it was easy to see why it would spark off an adrenaline rush in any traveller passing by. The slippery and near vertical walls of the hill made it a perfect place to build a fort; in this case - the Jamalabad fort.
Of the many forts Tipu has built all over South India, the Jamalabad fort is perhaps a very special one. Tipu Sultan, indisputably one of the most heroic rulers of the south, built this in 1794 and fondly named it after his mother, Jamalbee. Also known as ‘Narasimhagudi’, this citadel was captured by the British in 1799. But in 1800, the fort was rightfully fought back to possession from the intruders.
The steep granite rock faces of the hill tower to heights close to a 1000ft and the only approach to the fort on top is through the flight of stairs carved out of the granite rock. Although the ruins of the fort are hardly sufficient to spark an architectural debate, the precarious situation of the fort is quite intriguing. The almost 360 degree view from the top is sheer bliss to the eyes and the distant landscapes of the Kudremukh range beckon you to explore the wondrous wilderness.
I jumped off the bus as soon as the conductor hollered “Jamalabad Cross” and started my trek on a tarred road. After the first kilometre a beautiful stream broke my journey as I stopped to take a quick dip in its icy waters. I finally reached the base of the hill and there begun a very steep and tiring trek on a never ending flight of stairs. I soon got used to the level of ascent and every step higher gave a yet another beautiful glimpse of the countryside. The areca nut palms peeping through the morning mist, the tiled houses studded in between the verdant fields, the distant mountain tops hidden away in the clouds were some of the wonderful sights I witnessed as I stopped to catch my breath.
An archway at the top heralded the end of the ascent and although the hill holds no Golconda fort the little plateau it forms atop offers plenty of opportunities to explore the remnants of this ancient fort. The vista of the Kudremukh chain was simply amazing and one can spend endless hours gazing at them. I wandered around, making my way through the tall grass, exploring curious ramparts and enjoying the breath-taking views every time my path hit a dead end. I turned back late in the evening after watching the magnificent sunset. It was really sad that this one lesson in history had to come to an end!
FACT FILE
Getting There: The Jamalabad fort lies in Dakshina Kannada district and it makes for a pleasant trek at any time of the year except the monsoons. The nearest town is Belthangady, connected to Bangalore by overnight buses. From there, catch a private bus going towards 'Killur' and get down at 'Jamalabad Cross'. Your trek starts from here.
There is a forest check post at the base of the hill where you pay the entry fee (Rs 30, foreigners: Rs 80). Carry plenty of water with you apart from food since there is no fresh water available on top.
From Jamalabad cross, there are plenty of buses running towards Belthangady. The last one is at 7:30 pm (‘Gloria’). Alternatively, you can also get onto one of the jeeps that frequent this route. From Belthangady, since there aren’t many direct buses to Bangalore, you can alternatively take a local bus to Dharmasthala from where you are sure to get a bus to Bangalore.