Revivalist, textile educationist? Each conversation with Delhi-based designer Mukesh takes you back to the pages of Indian cultural history. Regaining all that is lost in the Indian textile bazaar, Mukesh patronises the oldest weaving and printing techniques. With the saree as his canvas, the painter in him unleashes to produce exquisite work. His admiration club comprises names like Shubha Mudgal, Shabana Azmi, Delhi’s CM Sheila Dixit and bigwigs from famous Indian political dynasties! Mukesh has no frills that most designers carry on their sleeves. Simple, humble and a true patron of art  - Mukesh lets his work speak for itself. He is back in Bangalore after eight years to showcase his updates.

You started your design journey 25 years ago. Was this professional choice a deliberate decision?

No, I am a designer by default. I am actually a trained painter. I have done my masters from the Delhi College of Art. I have no degree in fashion design. But I was passionate about textiles right from the age of six. My father was in the Indian Railways. So, we often travelled and along with my ice cream, I would collect textiles. When I was in my 20s, I wrote a book on the festivals of India. My eyes fell on the beautiful fabrics and weaves in the iconic cities of the north and that prompted me take to design in 1984. I worked from the terrace of my house with my wife Sushma. And my first collection ‘Jamevar’ was a huge success.

And then?

I did a lot of work for ‘Cooptex’, Tamil Nadu. For three years, I designed 3,000 sarees per month for them. I work from my little workshop in Delhi. I travel across the country, looking for the rarest and the oldest printing and weaving techniques. Everyday I am learning. Old weavers have taught me the significance of colours and motifs used on temple sarees. For instance, mango means bearing a son, green means fertility and so on. Each motif has a story to tell.

How did you develop the fascination towards reviving sarees?

I was brought up by my grandmother. So, I grew up watching the old world charm. Frankly, when I started my design journey, artificial fabrics like nylon and terryvoil were popular. I decided to revive all that we have lost. I love anything that is old. Close friends joke that my house is a ‘kabaad-khaana’  (laughs).

The problem with our country is that we are very happy adopting international trends. But why do we forget what’s our own. Eat pizza but don’t forget your ‘ghar ka khaana’! Again, when the West writes about us, we feel good. But we don’t value our own tradition. ‘Ghar ki murgi daal barabar’ attitude!

What does a saree mean to you?

Saree is like ‘ghar ka khaana’. You will miss it after 15 days of eating out. It’s timeless. You can pass it on to your daughter and your granddaughter. It looks good on all body shapes. Just change your blouse or wear a flower or drape it differently - saree is so flexible. They are multipurpose - sarees can become carriers for your child, become a rope or even a handkerchief! I don’t think any other garment can don so many roles.

Has Bangalore changed in these eight years?

I travel to Karnataka often to pick up my silks. Bangalore has the best yarn. The City has changed a lot. But it’s part of modernisation. Many boutiques have come up. I see that half-sarees have vanished. It’s all about the salwaar-kameez now.

What have you brought for the City’s saree enthusiasts?

I have brought over 500 sarees, showcasing Banarasi, Kashi (Kashmir) and Jamevar works. There are salwaar-kameezes, tops and dupattas too. My garments are also embellished with ‘rogan’ work from Andhra Pradesh, ‘wirk’ from Rajasthan and ‘kaamdani’ from Lucknow. There are weaves from across India. All the sarees are handwoven, handpainted and made using natural fabrics like silks, crepes and cottons. On some sarees, I have used real gold and silver prints. You will not find more than three alike pieces. The clothes will be on exhibit at Serenity (8/1, 5th Main, Jaymahal Extension) till February 2. The range starts at Rs 1880.

Your favourite designer...

All of them are dead (laughs). None can replace the old textile masters.

Agenda for the year...

I really want to get back to painting. But I have no time. As far as design is concerned, I will continue to cook ‘sambar’ since I am good at it. I will not try ‘daal makhani’. (laughs)