A luxuriant hill station in the barren
desertscape of Rajasthan
sounds almost impossible.
Yet, this is
exactly what
Mt Abu is, writes
G Brindha
Due to its cool climate and rich vegetation, it was once the training ground for IPS officers. Honeymooners in Rajasthan and the neighbouring Gujarat flock this tiny spot to start off their new life together. As we drive up to Mt Abu, a wide variety of trees, shrubs and ‘flame of the forest’ welcomes us.
The tropical splendour of the hills is overwhelming. Each curve of the road brings into view myriads of greenery.
The bus station is not as big as I expected it to be. I head towards my hotel, Connaught House. I dump my luggage in my room which is like a English Tudor cottage. The sylvan surroundings mesmerise me. Lovely lake
After breakfast, I look for the manager to discuss with him about the place and the resort but his seat is empty. I engage a vehicle and ask the driver to drop me near a popular spot. He takes me to the 'Jheel' Nakki. I understand as far as sight-seeing is concerned, Abu can be bifurcated into Dilwara Jain Temples and Nakki Lake and others.
The lovey artificial little Nakki(120ft depth), around which the town has grown, is encompassed by hills and dotted by islets. As there are strange rock formations around the lake, it offers excellent scope for photography. The boats are as usual and I opt for Shikara. The sun is sharp and the seat is warm.
No ugly toad!
As I move round the sparkling waters, I notice an enormous rock overhanging the lake. It is the eponymous ‘Toad’s Rock’ which looks like a toad ready to take a plunge into the sapphire-blue waters.
There are summer villas perching atop the hills built by the erstwhile Rajput rulers and posh cottages for the present day political bigwigs. Prominently visible among them are Jaipur Palace and Governor's Rest House. The lake is said to have been scraped from the ground by the Gods with their nails.
Next, I visit the internationally renowned Dilwara Mandir. Marble extravaganza it is! This is the simplest way to describe the Dilwara temples.
Till about the 11th century, Abu was an important Vaishnav and shaivite pilgrim centre, but is today recognised more as a Jain pilgrim centre.
More than the weather, vegetation and mythological importance, it is these Jain Temples that allure lakhs of visitors to Abu. Partly hidden by mango groves, the shrine’s sober exterior belies the wealth of its interior ornamentation.
The temple has profusion in marble carvings and may even pose a challenge to the Taj Mahal. It exhibits how the marble can be carved in innumerable ways. Marble seems to overflow in the pillars. Great skill
The central shrine with 52 small shrines and countless thorans (arches) is mind-boggling. It is almost beyond belief that stone can be manipulated with such skill and dexterity, or that so many variations on a theme could be encompassed on a single pillar or frieze. The sanctums have the image of Thirthankaras.
Every inch of the temple is carved, from doorways and lintels to ceilings, pillars and walls. As I walk inside these marvels of Jain art, I wonder if it's indeed the work of human hands!
It is said that sculptors and artisans were paid in gold and it involved several crores of rupees. Some term this as exaggeration. Yes, in a way Dilwara itself is an extravaganza. It can overwhelm and even satiate. But it cannot be missed. Any amount of recitation would be found wanting for these temples. They are to be seen to be believed. It is art at its finest.
The temple is open between noon and six in the evening. Unfortunately, photography is strictly prohibited inside the temple. But photos are sold by the temple administration and a private shop in the town.
I return to the resort to have lunch and to take a nap. In the evening, I decide to set out for a long walk to sunset point. It is a beautiful site which provides a lovely view of the sundown. It is stunning to see the divine scarlet ball gradually drowning itself in the azure sky between two mountain peaks.
The next day, I shift to Jaipur House which is located at the top of a cliff. Staying in the Palace itself is like visiting a tourist spot. No place in Abu can provide a more brilliant view of the lake and the town. It also has a water tower which gives 360 degree view of the surroundings.
*Accommodation:
Most of the luxurious hotels here are heritage properties. Jaipur House, the summer palace of the erstwhile ruler of Jaipur, offers excellent accommodation with big suites and good service. Sit on the terrace and spend your day watching the lake beneath you. E-mail: jaipurhouse@sancharnet.in
Welcome Heritage’s Connaught House is easily accessible from the market and bus Stand.
Contact: www.welcomheritagehotels.com * What to do in Mt Abu:
Long walks. This is the best way to explore Abu. Excellent trekking programmes are offered to Guru Shikar, Achalgarh and Gaumukh. * Climate:
To be frank, in Rajasthan summer begins from mid-March itself. It is warm in Mt Abu during the first week of April. Hence plan your trip between October and March. *Shopping: The market is not overcrowded. It has only three or four streets. Though there is no much scope for shopping, you may like to visit Rajasthali, the handicrafts emporium though.