Farmer friend Bhyrappa Rasale had told me that we would be able to join the Dindi group if we started at dawn. But it takes at least half an hour to reach Amminbavi, the Jain centre 16 km from Dharwad, on a bad road. Added to it, the monsoon had begun. Which meant starting at least another half hour early. The Dindi people wake up at 4 am and we also have to wake up at the same time before the rituals begin at 5 am.

As though having prior information about our visit, a slight drizzle began in the night. Woken up by the blaring alarm, I washed my face in the rain and by the time I sat pillion on photographer friend Kedarnath’s vehicle, I felt as if the entire Dharwad city was silent in the pouring rain.

However, as soon as we neared Sri Sadguru Samarth Ramdas Math, we found that it was illuminated two hours before daylight! As we neared the Math, we were greeted by the chants of ‘Dhanya dhanya Panduranga, Sakala Dosha Hoya Bhanga, Chala Phandarsi Jao Rakhuma Devi Vara Pao’. Afraid that we may miss the Dindi group, we hurried on in the slushy road.

Again, we were greeted by an army of white cap, white cloth-clad devotees. Everyone was fresh and a few were drawing the vertical vermilion line (nama). veenakaris, talas and mridangas were fine-tuned, ready to be played.
Holy book, ‘Jnaneshwari’ was all wrapped up in a red cloth. People milled around, greeting each other. The vast complex of the Ramdas Math was choc-a-bloc with devotees.

A look at the activities belies the fact that none of them have slept the previous night. Each one entered the hall one by one and stood in orderly discipline. It was time for Dindi elder Subhas Dharmaji Pawar to grasp the veenakaris and begin the bhajan:

‘Swayambhu Amucha Vitewari Ubha
Chaitanyacha Gabha Baisavila
Nahi Ghadavila Nahi Baisavila
Pundaleeka Ala Bhetavaya’

By the time the bhajan was half-way through, the entire Amminbavi seemed to have gathered in the Math complex. Each hand held an arti kalash, faces radiant with the hope of seeing those who were fortunate enough to be going on Dindi. Each girl and woman bowed their heads to the veenakari and the ‘Jnaneshwari’ with reverence, before performing the arti.

They were followed by menfolk. The Dindi group returned the gestures, irrespective of age or gender, practising the belief that God does not distinguish among his devotees.

By then, it was broad daylight and it was time to begin the Dindi Yatra. The procession was led by the devotees singing bhajans, with the villagers following them till the border of the village. From then on, it was only the Dindi bhakts and their chants of Narayana, Narayana.

When the march is on...
The Dindi Yatra commences on Ashadha Ekadashi every year and is a 16-day affair in which people from various towns and categories including the old, the young and the women take part. The devout believe that they earn their punya by visiting Pandharapur for the darshan of Lord Vitthala on barefoot. There is no discrimination on the basis of caste or creed.

The procession comprises groups of 30-200 people and not less than 100-150 groups from Karnataka undertake this annual religious trek. Those that start their journey from Dharwad compulsorily halt at Amminbavi before proceeding. And not without reason. For, a few good samaritans make arrangements in hospitality for the devotees who tread hundreds of kilometres barefoot. However, some people place their belongings in a tractor or two, holding only the veenakari, mridanga and tala to be used during bhajans while making the trip. It is interesting to note that neither rain nor inclement weather succeeded in disrupting the procession ever.

The Dindi Yatra covers Inamhongala, Ulligeri, Saundatti, Naviluteertha Dam, Chinchnoor, Munavalli, Katkol, Chandaragi, Sri Kshetra Godachi, Salahalli, Tondikatte, Halaki, Mudhol, Shirol, Jamakhandi, Kadkol and Jambagi before entering Maharashtra. From there the devotees reach Pandharapur in Sollapur taluk on the 16th day of their journey to obtain a darshan of Lord Vitthala. Later, they stay in the area for 2-3 days and return to their places in vehicles after Kadligadaba Hunnime (which falls on July 30 this year).

(Translated by B S Srivani)