Venice has fascinated me ever since I can remember. In my early school days it was because of The Merchant of Venice, a favourite of most schoolchildren who have acted it some time or the other. Later, as I learned to love school stories, Venice assumed a fresh significance because of What Katy did Next.

Those of you who have read the book would remember how Ned proposed to Katy in a gondola on their last evening in Venice. When I had the chance of visiting Venice myself years later it was like a dream come true.

I gazed at the shimmering blue of the Adriatic Sea on a sultry July afternoon, ready to step into a ‘water bus’ which would take me to the heart of the city of canals.

I could feel the air of romance which clings to this unique city with its maze of palaces, canals and the hump-backed bridges. What really stands out in my memory as the first wonderful sight is the magnificent Basilica of San Marco or the church dedicated to St Mark.

St Mark actually died in Alexandria but his relics were brought over to Venice by two merchants much later. The church which houses the relics was built way back in the 11th century. But it was extended and renovated in the subsequent centuries. Lavishly decorated, the church is surmounted by four gilded bronze horses. Its five golden domes gleamed in the sun as I stood looking at it in wonder.

Once inside the church, I was struck by the splendid mosaics which spread from floor to ceiling. These mosaics were designed by the 12th and 13th century craftsmen. The arches which support the intricate domes are equally beautiful.

Another attraction on the Piazza is the tall and stately bell tower. It was used as a meeting place for the nobles during the Renaissance. One can go up the tower in a lift for a breathtaking view of the city. While we marvelled at the sight, the guide informed us that this tower was rebuilt in 1912 after the original one collapsed suddenly one July morning, way back in 1902. I shivered as I suddenly realised that this was a July morning too! And there were many audible “oh”s and “ah”s as all of us made a dash for the lift!

O Sole Mio!
A trip to Venice is incomplete without a gondola ride. It is always accompanied by a serenade. A gondola is very much like our shikaras in Kashmir. We were ‘serenaded’ by a singer in a lovely baritone voice. I recognised the tune although the words were in Italian.

We passed under the famous ‘Bridge of Sighs’ which arches over a narrow canal, standing between the Doge’s palace and the Pazzi prison. The bridge got its name because the prisoners walked across this bridge to the dank, dark cells below, sighing as they took a last look at the world outside.

Another remarkable experience was our visit to the glassblowers also located on the Piazza. It was incredible how a piece of shapeless hot glass took the form of exquisite goblets, vases and tumblers right before our eyes. The shop was chockfull of the most gorgeous glass articles in a rainbow of colours.

We were now bound for the majestic Palazzo Ducale or the Doges’ palace, the residence of the Doges who were the elected dukes of Venice. Part of it was also used by the highest ranking magistrates of the city. Built between 1309 and 1442, it is said to be a perfect example of Venetian Gothic Architecture. The elaborate portico and the pink and white marble facade look really majestic even now. The beautiful courtyard inside leads to the Scala dei Giganti (stairway of the giants) which is guarded by Sansovino’s huge statue of Mars and Neptune. The palace is full of exquisite artworks.

Our guide left us at this point leaving us free to do our own thing for the next few hours. I walked under the Clock Tower into the Mercerie which is Venice’s busiest shopping centre.

The street was lined with shops selling the latest designer clothes, jewellry, shoes, leather goods and every kind of fashion accessory, all of them quite exorbitant. I window-shopped casually while walking up to the church of Santa Maria Farmosa, built in 1492 which has many famous paintings. The piazza of the church was once used as an outdoor theatre.

Market scene
A day is too short a time to do justice to the entire Piazza San Marco which is full of interesting palaces, churches, museums and shopping arcades. As I sat on the steps of the Piazza it was fun to see the round of hectic activity that went on inside the enormous courtyard full of pigeons, tourists and people, selling all kinds of ware in wheeled carts. There were ice creams and popcorn; sweets and balloons; toys, T-shirts, caps and what-have-you.

All the sellers seemed to do brisk business. Open air restaurants were full of tourists sipping drinks as live orchestras played heady music. And yet all is not well with this wonderful floating city, which might get buried under the Adrian Sea some day with increased global warming and other geological factors threatening it.

However It was difficult to imagine that afternoon that the city lurked under a shadow or that its days were numbered.

The only message that came across the sound of music, din and laughter echoing all along the Piazza was— ‘God’s in His heaven, All’s right with the world!’

VENICE AT A GLANCE
Venice is a city in northern Italy, the capital of region Veneto, and has a population of 271,663 (census estimate January 1, 2004).

Venice's nicknames include ‘Queen of the Adriatic’, ‘City of Water’, ‘City of Bridges’, and ‘The City of Light’.

The city stretches across numerous small islands in the marshy Venetian Lagoon along the Adriatic Sea in northeast Italy.