Hot days and muggy nights do not mean that you have to say goodbye to fashion. Ritusmita Biswas gives
a lowdown on whats going
great guns this summer.
If you thought summer was a time to go pastel and pristine white, then think again. This summer the colours are in and ‘just white’ is out.
The look this time is essentially fresh and a lot of greens seem to be doing rounds in the fashion circuit. Though one cannot just think of summers minus the plain white shirt and blue denims; yet those are not the only options now. A black trouser teamed with a florescent green top in the evenings could make an equally ‘cool’ statement in summer. This season, the emphasis is on fabric, denim, tailoring, patterns and fashion is all about getting colourful, looking relaxed and going out in style.
Says designer Neeta Kapoor: “The colours to go for this summer are light and airy. I have used a lot of lime greens, pale yellows and lemons in my collection. It has a fresh look about it, which is inspired by nature.” The same holds true for designer Achira Basu who also vouchsafes that this is a colourful summer. “Pastels are not in this time. My collection uses some really bright and summery colours such as lime green, ferozi, azure blue among others.”
The trick this summer seems to be to keep the colours warm, yet muted. Black, burgundy, olive and plum seem to be the top colours in the Indian fashion palette. The other must-have colours include turquoise, lavender, fuchsia, lemon and pastel pink.
As far as the cut is concerned, flare is out and international lean and long lines in silhouettes, like skinny pants and drainpipe trousers are happening at the moment. Says designer Agnimitra Paul: “The current trend is for short jeans, capris and short skirts. Voluminous straight line cuts are the happening ones this season.” Agrees designer Jyoti Khaitan: “A trendy, short dress in light coffee or biscuit colour would be my ideal choice for this season.”
The ethnic look, of course, is much in demand. Though it is not white this time, khadi is definitely still a very hip fashion statement this summer. Says Kapoor: “Khadi is being extensively used in western wear now to create a fusion look that is international yet with a typical Indian touch.” Apart from khadi, typical Indian fabrics like kota are also increasingly becoming designers’ favourites. That is because they are comfortable and yet when used innovatively can make a complete fashion statement, believe the designers.
For most of the designers, the summer collection, apart from ‘fashionability’, the focus is on comfort. “That is because the customers want it. Who would want to be uncomfortable when the mercury is blazing and yet feel fashionable,” says designer Minakshi Daddo. “Therefore, in collections for this season, it is essential to keep the comfort factor in mind. It is a season where cottons, linens and khadis are in and the dresses are more casual than formal,” she adds.
Though traditional white is not happening this time, there are, however, a lot of experiments going on with it, giving it a more fashionable look. For instance, Minakshi is using a lot of black detailing on white in her summer collection to give it a new look this season. White teemed with silver zari work also seems to be a very in look this season.
“White is the eternal favourite in summer. The only reason we are avoiding it now is because just white has become terribly stale and so the focus now is to create something new out of white,” Rita Sharma, an aspiring fashion designer, says.
However, emphasis is also on to infuse natural fabrics in Indian fashion. A fashion show in Kolkata recently showcased only pristine cotton creations - a strong endorsement for the natural fabric as a cool choice for making a style statement in the scorching Indian summer.
With a reported decrease in the use of cotton for clothing worldwide, the show with leading models Tapur and Tupur Chatterjee sporting Mona-Pali and Kiran Uttam Ghosh collections was organised to re-emphasise that cotton is anything but 'uncool'.
“There is a marked decrease in the use of cotton. In the western world, synthetic fabric has already scored over natural fabrics like cotton and we expect the same to happen in India by 2020. So it’s high time that we take a grip on the scenario to prevent this natural fabric from total extinction,” says Ashish Dhir, India representative of the Cotton Council International, which organised the fashion event.
“Cotton fabric is made of natural fibre, its breathable, cool and ideal for the warm Indian climate. It's the natural option I reach for when I plan my pret line,” says Kiran Uttam Ghosh.
Designer Pali Sachdeva of Mona-Pali fame says: “Cotton is the most suitable and favoured fabric for summer and it is not only worn for causal gatherings but also at sophisticated formal parties.”
While Mona-Pali's outfit was an ivory coloured long skirt with a matted scarf, Kiran Uttam Ghosh's collection was a sneak preview to her autumn line and sought to explore the use of cottons in winter too.
As far as the accessories are concerned, they will continue to be big and chunky — and one can wear as many as they want. Belts are very much in use this summer. Both low waist and high waist belts are dominating this season and can essentially add that Bohemian element to your persona.
The look to create is essentially that of modern maverick that is one with a distinct sense of style yet adhering to the current fashion doctrines. Make up essentially is minimalist.
Says noted make up artist Anirudhha Chakladar: “In summer, I always prefer a nude and natural make up which is easy to carry. Based on skin colour, a minimalist make up should be used. In the evening parties, however, the look can be a little brighter but overall it should have a warm yet soft effect.”
As for hairstyle, shorter and the no-messy look is back this season. For those with long hair, however, the wavy look is hot this year. But ultimately, the one to stand out from the crowd makes her own style statement combining these elements instead of blindly imitating others.