The nursery rhyme celebrates these spicy, currant/raisin-studded yeast buns, with their crosses of lemon-flavoured icing...
“Hot Cross Buns! Hot Cross Buns! One a penny, two a penny, Hot Cross Buns!” Thus did peddlers once call out to people, urging them to sample their wares. While the popular nursery rhyme owes its origin to this 19th century street cry, hot cross buns date back to the Middle Ages in England, when they were distributed to those in need.
Long before that, the Romans used to bake little round cakes during their spring festivals, signifying the full moon. These were adorned with an X, which stood for its four quarters. Christianity adopted and adapted this custom, as it had several other ancient practices. Hot cross buns---as we know them today---bear the Christian symbol of sacrificial love.
Through the centuries, hot cross buns have been credited with healing powers. Believed to last for months without going stale, hot cross buns are also said to protect houses from evil, and to prevent shipwreck. Farmers hope that hot cross buns in granaries will keep rats away! Whether or not there is truth in any of this, hot cross buns is traditional Good Friday fare. Indeed, Queen Elizabeth I passed a law in the 16th century, which prohibited the eating of hot cross buns on non-sacred occasions.
The nursery rhyme celebrates these spicy, currant/raisin-studded yeast buns, with their crosses of lemon-flavoured icing. The poem is likely to be popular with girls, since the second verse gives preference to daughters over sons. The simple reason? “Sons” rhymes with “buns”! As for “one a penny, two a penny,” which sounds as if the peddler doesn’t know the price of his product, it is probably a ‘buy one, get another free’ promotional offer.
Light-hearted though the rhyme may be, it recalls earlier, more devout, times when hot cross buns were consumed with relish, but also with reverence for the solemn event they represented---the crucifixion of Jesus Christ.
How to make hot cross buns
makes 24
1 cup milk
2 Tbsp yeast
1/2 cup sugar
2 tsp. salt
1/3 cup butter, melted and cooled
1 1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. nutmeg
4 eggs
5 cup flour
1 1/3 cup currants or raisins
1 egg white
Glaze (you can use this one or your favorite)
1 1/3 cup confectioner's sugar
1 1/2 tsp. finely chopped lemon zest
1/2 tsp. lemon extract
1-2 Tbsp milk
In a small saucepan, heat milk to very warm, but not hot (110°F if using a candy thermometer). Pour warm milk in a bowl and sprinkle yeast over. Mix to dissolve and let sit for 5 minutes.
Stirring constantly, add sugar, salt, butter, cinnamon, nutmeg and eggs. Gradually mix in flour, dough will be wet and sticky. Continue kneading until smooth, about 5 minutes. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let the dough "rest" for 30-45 minutes.
Knead again until smooth and elastic, for about 3 more minutes. Add currants or raisins and knead until well mixed. At this point, dough will still be fairly wet and sticky. Shape dough in a ball, place in a buttered dish, cover with plastic wrap and let rise overnight in the refrigerator. Excess moisture will be absorbed by the morning.
Let dough sit at room temperature for about a half-hour. Line a large baking pan (or pans) with parchment paper (you could also lightly grease a baking pan, but parchment works better). Divide dough into 24 equal pieces (in half, half again, etc., etc.). Shape each portion into a ball and place on baking sheet, about 1/2 inch apart. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let rise in a warm, draft-free place until doubled in size, about 1 1/2 hours.
In the meantime, pre-heat oven to 400° F.
When buns have risen, take a sharp or serrated knife and carefully slash buns with a cross. Brush them with egg white and place in oven. Bake for 10 minutes, then reduce heat to 350° F, then bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes more. Transfer to a wire rack. Whisk together glaze ingredients, and spoon over buns in a cross pattern. Serve warm, if possible.
“Hot Cross Buns! Hot Cross Buns! One a penny, two a penny, Hot Cross Buns!” Thus did peddlers once call out to people, urging them to sample their wares. While the popular nursery rhyme owes its origin to this 19th century street cry, hot cross buns date back to the Middle Ages in England, when they were distributed to those in need.
