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Deccan Herald » Sunday Herald » Detailed Story
TRAVEL
The sacred city
The present Mahabodhi tree in Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka, is believed to be an offshoot of the original tree in Bodh Gaya under which Gautama Buddha had attained nirvana, writes D B N Murthy

Anuradhapura, in the northern province of Sri Lanka, is on the Golden Triangle Anuradhapura- Sigiriya-Kandy of the Buddhist circuit. As you get off the bus in the descript bus-station you might wonder whether this was the place, which was one of the capitals of Sri Lanka for centuries with a reputation for excellent planning for an urban centre in ancient times. To remain capital of a nation for over one thousand of years is an achievement few cities in the world could boast of. In recognition of its cultural importance, the UNESCO has designated Anuradhapura as a World Heritage Site.

The ancient city is an archaeological wonder with a few surviving structures and the sacred Bodhi tree. As you enter the ancient city from the bustling new town, immediately you feel you are in a different world. A big board announcing places of interest greets you.

Another striking feature is the overwhelming presence of the security personnel, men and women, toting guns standing on guard or sitting behind barricaded positions ever alert for any intruders. After crossing this human barrier, you heave a sigh of relief. You are now standing on a bridge overlooking a gurgling stream meandering through thick verdant vegetation. This stream must have seen the heydays of the glorious period of Sri Lankan history.

History

Anuradhapura is the birthplace of Sinhala civilisation. Anuradha, a follower of Prince Vijaya, first settled in this place and named it Anuradhapura. However, it was King Pandukabhaya who established Anuradhapura as the capital of the country in the year 380 B.C.

It continued to be the royal capital ruled by 119 successive Singhalese kings, for an unbroken period till 1000 A.D. Successive invasions from the Chola kings from South India ravaged the city and finally it was abandoned in the year 1017 A.D. Then the city lost its importance as the capital after serving the nation for a long continuous period.

The history of introduction of Buddhism in Sri Lanka dates back to the reign of King Devanampiya Tissa, 250-210 B.C. when Arahat Mahinda, son of the great Emperor Asoka came to Sri Lanka along with a group of missionaries who settled down in the caves in the hill of Mihintale.

The new religion swept like a wave and spread all over the nation. The King and his entourage were the first new converts. With this began a great construction activity of stupas and religious structures that helped to spread and consolidate the new religion. Presently, Buddhists are in a majority in Sri Lanka where the clergy is held in high esteem. They have special privileges like reservations of seats in buses and separate waiting rooms.

Shri Mahabodiya

The most sacred site in the ancient city of Anuradhapura is the Mahabodhi tree, which is heavily guarded. One has to pass through two more security checks to reach the outer precincts of the holy tree, which is surrounded by a wall. However, visitors cannot go anywhere near the tree but have to pay obeisance from a distance. Asoka's daughter Sanghamitta, who accompanied her brother Mahinda carried the shoot of the sacred tree in Bodh Gaya under which Gautama Buddha had attained nirvana. Thus it is believed that the present Mahabodhi tree in Anuradhapura is an offshoot of the original tree.

Ruwanaweliseya

It means “Golden Sand” stupa with a perfect water bubble shape and one of the biggest stupas in the world for its sheer dimensions. The work is credited to King Duttha Gamini who built it during the 2nd century B.C. though he didn't see it completed. There are Buddha statues adorning at various places.

The lower compound wall surrounding the stupa has a row of elephant statues all around, presenting a wonderful picture. “I do not see any other way for happiness of beings except cultivating the factors of enlightenment, practicing meditation and the retainment of the sense of faculties” Subramha Sutra, words of wisdom for humanity of all ages put up inside the dagoba. In front of the dagoba near the entrance is a cool water fountain: ‘Gifted by Shri Jawaharlal Nehru, Prime Minister of India, in memory of his friend the late Mr. S W R D Bandarnaike to the pilgrims to the sacred city.” Presently, it is out of order. There are many archaeological sites to be seen and enjoyed. A few of these are Cotussala, Dakkhina Tupa and Thuparamaya.

Even a brief visit to the sacred city of Anuradhapura is like a journey back in time retracing the glorious days of Sri Lankan nation that had embraced Buddhism and where urban planning was at its best.

FACT FILE

How to reach: By road, rail or by air from Colombo which is 206 km away.
 
When to visit: Any time, though cooler months of November to March preferred.

Visa: Indians get free visa on arrival at Colombo's International Airport at Katunayake

Currency: Sri Lankan rupees 100 NR    is equal to about 230 SR.

Cost of living: fairly high.

Local transport: Autos, taxis, and buses.

Food: Mostly non-vegetarian. Vegetarians have limited choice.

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