It’s the era of power dressing for the new independent woman. Chic business suits, pin-striped trim trousers, snazzy short jackets to fitted shirts — the czarinas of the corporate world are sporting the male silhouette with great elan. The most integral aspect of a woman’s life has undergone a ravishing revamp — her wardrobe.
Allen Solly was probably the first brand in India in it’s genre, to launch a business line for women. Says, Sooraj Bhat, brand manager, Allen Solly, “The rationale was fairly simple and straightforward. Women were beginning to make their mark in corporate circles. While this metamorphosis was taking place, there were hardly any choices available for women to reflect the changing attitude. So, we launched Genesis in 2002.”
Talking about the popularity of corporate wear among women today, Sooraj explains, “Women’s wear business is growing aggressively in India. Allen Solly has a growth rate in excess of 20 per cent per year.”
Such was the demand that parent company Madura Garments, launched another comprehensive women’s line through it’s brand, Van Heusen.
Launched a year ago, Van Heusen Woman comprises of fitted business suits, shirts sporting elegant floral prints and club wear, among others.
Bishwanath, brand manager for Van Heusen, says, “Fundamentally, women are balancing home and work and want to look good at all occasions. We provide a complete look for the new woman of today who works and parties.”
He reveals that this season Van Heusen Woman will bring several new stories like androgynous, romantic, among others.
Trends this season
So, is it all about crisp business suits for working women? Sooraj disagrees, “It’s all about how you carry yourself. Mix and match is big these days. So power dressing can be a business suit or the same business jacket paired with smart jeans.”
This explains why Allen Solly this season has designed a collection in sync with international trends. It comprises a line of shirt dresses, which be paired with jeans or capris. Twofers, which are essentially derived from trends of layering, are also hot this season.
Another offering is leggings to be paired with skirts or dresses. For the approaching season, dusty rose pink is one colour that’s going to be very hot, according to this brand. Spring is all about light-weight cottons, sheer voiles and linen.
Delhi-based couturier, Sumit Suri, is the first Indian designer to create corporate wear for women. Under the label, ANJJAN, his creations are retailed at most popular malls. What prompted him to create businesswear for women?
“I started this line about nine years ago. Women in the corporate world were looking for comfortable western wear. And yes, the trend has changed over the years.
“Fits have changed. Women today are very fussy about the fit. Trim fit has replaced boot cuts and flairs. Some detailing and embroidery is a must. Imported fabrics like polyester blends, terry rayon blend and wool are popular. Blacks, browns and stripes are hot.”
Explaining this corporate czarina phenomenon, Bangalore-based designer Namrata G says, “Women want to look like bosses. I get 25 to 30 female clients every month.
They want to be perfect at everything, including their wardrobe. Short jackets clinched at the waist, cropped pants, printed shirts, ankle length or knee-length skirts are great for office wear.”
Accessories
While you have half the battle won with a classic business suit, some great accessories can put the power on full mode.
Suggests Namrata, “Dressing is really important today. But no jingle bells please and no sleeveless. No-noise making accessories for office. Pearls and diamonds are perfect. Wear stylish shoes, wedges or open sandals. Cream and beige coloured shoes are great to wear. Only then people will take you seriously.”
Meanwhile Sumit believes that a nice bag or a silk scarf is sufficient.
Sarees for work
In this era of power dressing, has the Indian national garment lost it’s place? There is a mixed response on the saree soiree at workplace.
States Namrata, “Today women have a tight schedule and balance work and partying. So, they want something easy to wear and western silhouette is more popular.” Sumit begs to differ. “Sarees will never go out of fashion. Salwaar suit is another great option. But the younger women have more options,” he believes.
According to Sooraj, “Women, especially above 35 years, wear a mix of both western and traditional Indian outfits. But the growth rate for western wear is encouraging.” However, printed crepe sarees are visible in the hospitality industry.
Agrees Govardhan, managing director, Vijaylakshmi Silks. He believes the saree revolution took place when Shah Rukh Khan’s film Main Hoon Na released. He observes, “People loved Sushmita Sen’s look. The demand for sarees grew dramatically. Simple sarees with good fall, easy movement, little or no embroidery and toned down shades of pinks, reds, bottle green and navy blue are the most sought-after. Moreover, all body types can carry off sarees. It’s most popular in the hospitality industry.”
The bottomline is that the new Indian woman is geared up for the boardroom with her talent, skill and soaring fashion quotient.