What happens when an ace couturier with blue blood to boast of, talks jewellery design? You get a concept that is truly class apart. And World Gold Council has hit the right button by choosing designer Raghavendra Rathore as the concept carrier for their nationwide jewellery design competition, Auditions India.

   A global gold couture brand, Auditions is India’s first gold jewellery design competition with the theme ‘Trendsetting Gold’ for the modern Indian woman. Recently in the City for the Bangalore rounds, Raghu spoke to Metrolife about jewellery design, walking the ramp for Rohit Bal, the future of fashion and more.

About Auditions...
I have not seen much evolution in jewellery design in India. Auditions is a global democratic platform for the youth and karigars to showcase their talent. My work is to get them to move away from convention.
People are frantically looking for such designers. The winner may just fit into a brand like Sabyasachi, Rajesh Pratap or a Donna Karen.

Expectations from the winner...
I am going with a white piece of paper, expecting to see  a hard-hitting concept from the winning participant at Auditions. Six months from now, I hope to see some diversity in design. I don’t want a quick sketch with no R and D.

The winner should be a wonder in say even New York. He should create a product that is unique yet reeking of Indianness.

Significance of jewellery...
Coming from the royal land of Jodhpur, I am historically connected with jewellery. Custom-made jewellery was the first idea of couture. Traditional heavy jewellery is still popular. Nevertheless, I don’t want to jade my idea into the participants. 

Gold, the new black...
Gold and yellow are the strong colours of the season. Gold metal is a medium that people connect with. Rajasthan has a strong culture of gifting gold coins for it’s looked upon as a cementing phenomenon.
In the auditions participants will attempt at bringing stylisation and fashion into this age-old metal.
No room for men’s jewellery...

Yes, the participants will only design women’s jewellery. I believe that men’s jewellery comprises only button, pen and chain. You cannot sell beyond that. A plate with a gold rim makes more for me.

One must also note that jewellery and make-up were first worn by men. Slowly, the transition took place and now women’s fashion is being given importance. 

New Indian consumer...
Consumers are richer than last year at the fashion week. Pret lines are not happening anymore. Being discreet is the mantra. So, positioning logos on surface is going out. The idea is to be exclusive and not screaming aloud.

Walking the ramp...
I walked the ramp for Rohit Bal with other designers at the fashion week recently. It was our way of celebrating ten years of fashion weeks. Honestly, all of us went numb backstage. I was a nervous wreck!

Future of modelling...
Models are the vehicles of a designer’s creations. With so many international brands coming into India, modelling industry is going to blossom.

India on the map...
You will find a white shirt by Gaurav Gupta and another by Dolce and Gabbana. But you will pick D and G.
Indian designers need to put some Indianness to their garments to sell. Education in fashion must change. Instead of draping and stitching, the student must be taught management of design. A good idea must be sold well. It’s like writing a book and expecting people to read it too. Success determines the virtue of your product.

Bollywood projects...
After ‘Eklavya’, I am looking for the right script. It’s not about money. I think movies are the best advertisement of your vision. Our political system must learn from the film industry. Hire and don’t interfere. Having faith in people can change the nation.

Future of fashion...
Fashion has been there since the stone-age. But the nature of fashion is changing. The future of fashion is franchise. More so, all our templates are talking luxury now.
Lifestyle restaurants, redefining home spaces and luxury products are gaining importance. Fashion is second to cricket in India today.