It does not matter how many times you meet Sanchita Ajjampur, her restless, creative energy just swoops down on you and swirls you along with her latest collection. Petite and almost faerie like, Sanchita's simple manner belies her mind boggling CV which includes a fashion degree from the Chambre Syndicate de la haute couture Parisienne, in Paris and a Masters from the Domus Academy in Milan. " Most of this year I have spent in Europe consulting for Hugo Boss, Jean Paul Goultier, Studio Juan Salvado/Moschino among others My work experience is with the Romeo Gigli and Callaghan collections besides my own label. I am also a lecturer at the Domus Academy in Milan, Ikea, Milan and the Instituto Europeo di Design, Milan," she reveals as your pencil flies across the page trying to keep up with her capacities. You know you are talking to one of the top designers in the world, when she reveals that she has done industrial design products for Allessandro Mendini (porcelain) Swatch time pieces, Slamp (lamps) and Glass design (mirror).
"I design eclectic collections for the modern woman who wants to infuse the clothes she wears with her own personality," reveals Sanchita. " My designs are a crosscurrent of the myriad textures of India fused with European art and sartorial design. This line will hit the stores in Milan in September."
The whole collection for women were very wearable, with school girl lengths for the dresses, with knees showing, making them gawky, yet sexy. Every piece was highly feminine but with a freedom of form, which allows any figure to wear them comfortably. Sanchita enjoys working with luxurious fabrics, so charmeuse satin jostled for space with modal and silk jerseys and the oval, egg shape, dominated the cut of the garments.
A black dress with a school girl meets the secretary silhouette, seemed like a reflection of Sanchita herself. Waif slim, like a school girl, Sanchita breathes the essence of a woman in whatever she wears. " That is what I have brought out in this dress — the vulnerable woman who is also assertive." The armholes of the dress were embroidered with angel wings in gold filigree with a clinched waistline with a large belt. " Here I am going back to the '40s and '50s with the Marilyn look, you can see the legs and yet it is not vulgar even on an older woman. All the matching leathers are treated so they don't look brand new, rather they have a vintage feel to them," she explained.
Gorgeously understated
Carol Gracias modelled a gorgeously understated outfit in grey mélange cashmere jersey with beaded detail on the sleeve. "Today lingerie has become the protagonist, all peeping out and making a statement," explained Sanchita, where bra straps and panty tops are all part of the picture. Carol wore open toed boots designed and made by Sanchita in her workshops in Italy. The boots were open toed with the model's nail polish and socks peeping out!
Another dress was a take on the very '80s Tuxedo shirt in striking colours of amethyst and jade. Many of the dresses were teamed with jackets for the winter collection with patterns of dragons and warlike tattoo figures executed in the Japanese sashiko technique, which is used on Firemen's jackets in Japan. The collection for women included sheath dresses, tunics, empire line and shirt dresses. Sanchita adds an ornamental twist to halters and collars or tulip and flared skirts, with her embroidery and talisman gems. All her accessories too are created in- house, right from the belts, to the boots, to even the kidskin ballet shoes. She creates an entire look.
"I have just begun a men's line and all my men's wear gets snapped up off the racks," revealed Sanchita. " It's a very relaxed boyish look, with pleating and rouching on the shirt fronts. I don't want the man to be a dandy, as most women prefer the macho man, with a hint of softness." The shirt was worn with an over-dyed pair of jeans, with some detail on the pocket. "My clothes have been very well received in Paris and Brussels," revealed Sanchita and looking at the polo neck dress with opaque tights, or the sensuous toga dress in satin, one cannot help but agree, that Sanchita's talent speaks volume for itself.
Sanchita's designer line can be checked out at the flagship Sanchita store, in the Leela Galleria, in Bangalore.