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Deccan Herald » Metro Life - Mon » Detailed Story
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Tribute to rich craftsmanship
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Bala Chauhan
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The Crafts Council of Karnataka is holding its annual designer textile and garment exhibition ‘Vastraabharan’ at the Chitrakala Parishat till October 6.
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Abdul Rauf from Dhamadka, Kutch in Gujarat explains the work in his fabrics and saris. A nine-generation old tradition and two centuries of legacy is a bit too heavy to carry on one’s shoulder but the young artisan from Gujarat talks about Ajrak - the ancient dyeing and printing art with great finesse.
Abdul explains the entire process of dyeing at different stages, in natural dyes, drying and printing. “Ajrak literally meant ‘aaj ke din rakh’, or keep it for today because that is what the process is. Each time we dye the fabric we are supposed to dry it for three to four days,” he says while showing his stunning ajrak collection comprising saris and dress materials at ‘Vastraabharan’, the annual exhibition of designer textiles and jewellery organised by the Crafts Council of Karnataka, at the Chitra Kala Parishath. The colours are beautiful and so are the prints, which largely take inspiration from geometric and floral designs.
In the next stall Bankim Kumar Misra from Orissa is busy setting up his merchandise. Bankim. a designer with the UNDP is known for Ikkat work. He takes out the stoles in Tussar on which he has made tribal designs with tyeing and dyeing the yarn. “We use high twisted cotton yarn, which we dye in vegetable and natural dyes.
The colours are drawn from waste iron, root of a tree etc. Lemon and soapnut are used to soften and condition fabrics like two-ply Tussar,” the artisan explains the 200-year-old tribal art form, which is now a rave among people.
Hasham Turabi, the weaver from Varanasi flashes a Tanchoi handwoven sari in silk. The workmanship is simply extraordinary. The whole sari is like a dream tapestry woven in silk. Hasham speaks about a small loom he has invented, of the size of 16 cm by 28 cm with a 26 inch height. “It is ideal to make samples and send to buyers. It is also of use to students of design and textile,” says the young enterprising man whose merchandise carries the rich tradition of the ancient spiritual city of India in silk, satin and zari. Mamtha Reddy of Kalam Creations, Tirupathi has a very unique collection of Kalamkari work and double Ikkat.
A math-graduate, she re-invented the centuries-old temple art, which initially took off as wall hanging.
“It was a dying art form when I turned it into utility garments,” says Mamtha. Her ghagras are for today’s women, who love to wear tradition on their person, The epic figures from Ramayan or the Annapakshi (the mythical bird) painted across on saris and garments are beautiful. There are other stalls of Ilkal saris, Kasuti work from Karnataka, which have brought a new range this year. The Shibori work brought in by Prabha of Delhi is a must. A stitch resist technique, originally from Japan has turned fabrics into magic. Shibori work is like a Haiku; geometric and designs inspired by nature imprinted on Tussar silk are mind blowing, simply. From saris to stoles, the line is worth investing in. Semi-precious stone and silver jewellery by Preeti Patel from Vadodra is good and so are the block printed and vegetable dye fabrics and saris by Ram Kishore of Jaipur.
Each stall has brought with it the stories of India’s rich heritage and craftsmanship. Though prices are on the higher side, one doesn’t mind splurging for the cause of the art and artisan.
The exhibition is on till October 6 at the CKP.
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Monday, October 3, 2005
