A retreat in the heart of a forest

This is one journey that will literally transport you to a haven of peace, seducing you with its heady forest aroma and leafy canopy even as you alight at the destination. Its other enticing feature is its thin tourist traffic. Tapovan, close to the Sri Vadiraja Math near Sirsi, attracts only the brave hearts, although it is a familiar name on the travel map.

Sirsi in Uttara Kannada district, surrounded by lush green forests and many waterfalls, is a popular tourist destination, its vicinity sprinkled with several pilgrim centres. Some 20 km from Sirsi is Sode, where the 15th century saint-poet Vadiraja established his Math. Sode itself is a unique religious centre—there is no caste discrimination, touts are absent, the expansive temple complex is particularly clean, quiet, and shorn of too many rituals.

It is not crowded by over-enthusiastic pilgrims either. Integral to the itinerary of the devout is a secluded niche in the midst of a forest, the Tapovan. Situated on the banks of the serene Shalmala river, about six km from the Math, Tapovan derives its name from its historicity, being the place where Vadiraja meditated during his 113 years of life as an ascetic.

Among the ashtamathas

Sode is one among the ashtamathas established by Madhvacharya. Vadiraja (1480-1600) was initiated into sainthood when he was just eight years old, and the Tapovan was where he spent much of his time. He is also known for the pithy philosophy of his compositions, about 500 of which have been retrieved so far. Vadirjaja’s compositions have been gaining in popularity on the concert menu of Carnatic musicians of the state.

Unspoilt terrain

Part of the bio-diversity rich Western Ghats, Tapovan is a fascinating mix of bounteous nature and history, and the undulating topography of Sode, at an altitude of about 2,000 feet, is a nature lover’s paradise. If several relics at Tapovan  point to it as the place of meditation of Vadiraja, its tranquility and unspoilt beauty, with its little waterfalls, rocks, and whispering foliage, promises a serene retreat quite unlike any other. Yet, not many venture into Tapovan. A walk through the forests without the threat of wildlife makes the hour-long trek from Sode to Tapovan appear to be easy. But its secluded location and the lack of a marked route brings in an element of risk to the trip. One can also easily lose one’s way, confused by the many small paths that crisscross the forests.

Even as one begins the trek, one is enveloped by the fragrance of medicinal plants that abound in the area, and the aroma of fresh greenery. Brambles and vanilla bushes mingle with tall deciduous trees to form a green canopy that can be quite forbidding on cloudy days.

The idyllic Tapovan, where watching the sunrise can be as beautiful an experience, is, however, out of bounds for quite a few months during the year. The forest is infested with leeches during monsoons that stretch from June to September, and the path gets blocked by thick vegetation during winter. Thick fog makes visibility nil, and even locals do not venture into the woodland.

Come summer, villagers clear the path for visitors to trickle in. In fact, the trek to Tapovan is better undertaken with a large group under the guidance of a local person.

Lack of human habitation in the vicinity of Sode, its isolation, and serenity lend a mesmerising charm to Tapovan. The Swarnavalli and Jain Maths are also as picturesque in location, and a must-see.

Sode itself is well-connected by road, with both private and government buses plying regularly. Private jeeps are also available near the Math. The nearest airport is Hubli, a two-and-a half-hour drive from Sirsi. Kumta, about 55 km away, is the nearest railhead.

Distinct history of Sirsi’s temples

It is a boon that luxurious hotel accommodation is not available, allowing one to not only sample the warm local hospitality, but commune with nature. Small canteens serve hot beverages and snacks, but need prior intimation if food has to be organised for large groups. Rooms with attached bathrooms are available for visitors at the Math premises. Sirsi itself has several hotels where one can stay.

If Tapovan entices with its exclusive location and silence, the vicinity of Sirsi itself offers a wonderful tour on the temple circuit. Ancient temples such as the Marikamba, Maha Ganapathi, Gopalakrishna, and Madhukeshwara temples among others, and the Sahasralinga area on the banks of the Shalmala have a distinct history each. 

Another unusual facet of Sirsi is that it is a centre of astrology, where  hereditary priests and astrologers begin their predictions with elaborate prayers.