History in a pastoral set-up

It was my first visit to the Uttara Kannada region. Though I am not new to the Western Ghats, I had never ventured beyond Sagar to the smaller towns and villages of Shimoga district. As we raced down the snaky trail from Soraba, the bumpy rides on potholed roads encouraged me to put aside my camera and just enjoy the scenic beauty of the villages.

On either side of the road were huge keres formed by the monsoon and lush paddy crops. Intermittent rain and the monsoon air were accompanied by familiar rural sights and smells. Our destination was Balligavi, a small town in Shikaripura taluk of Shimoga district.

Though Balligavi is a small town today, it was once an important educational, commercial and a cultural hub. “It was a place of such antiquity,” notes B L Rice in the Gazetteer he compiled for the then Mysore government, “that even in the 12th century, as to be styled the mother of cities, the capital of all cities, the anadi rajadhani, the immemorial capital and is said to derive its name from the rakshasa King Bali.” He goes on to say that it was the capital of Banavasi or the “Banavasi-twelve thousand province.”

Considering the Banavasi province once encompassed almost the entire region between the rivers Varada and Tungabhadra, that’s an incredible achievement for a city of those times.

The town, according to the priest at Kedareshwara temple, reached its peak during the reign of Chalukyas (between 10th and 12th century); though its prosperity continued during the Hoysala reign also.

During the Chalukya reign, the city had five mathas (religious centres or monastaries), three puras (extensions) apart from several Brahmapuris (Brahmanas’ settlements). The sculptors of this region were very famous and many travelled down south during the Hoysala rule and were instrumental in creating the marvellous Hoysala temples.

As is common, much of what is left of history are the intricately carved stone temples. Belligavi, Balagami, Ballipura or Balligavi as people now call it, is home to many very old temples – Kedareshwara, Someshwara and Tripurantakeshwara – to name a few. The place is full of inscriptions and temple ruins. The ASI-maintained ones are just a handful, one suspects.

Temple architecture

The Kedareshwara temple is a beautiful structure, slightly below the existing ground level. As we go in, the frontal view is blocked by a huge benevolent nandi; a style that is common across all Shiva temples in Uttara Kannada.

The central shrine is a small linga made of Krishna shila. On either side are shrines to Brahma and Janardana. The ceilings in the mantapa have simple lotus carvings. In the central ceiling is a picture of Shiva as Tandaveshwara flanked on eight sides by ashta dikpalakas – a design that was also seen in Tripurantakeshwara temple. The three shrines have three beautiful gopuras that reflect the Kalyana Chalukya architecture.

On two of these towers is the royal emblem of the Hoysala. A third one that’s incomplete is preserved in front of the museum beside the temple.

The museum is home to several relics and inscriptions collected in the region. Apart from Hindu deities, there are also several Jain statues as the place was an important centre propagating Jina dharma too. The Tripurantakeshwara temple nearby has a colourful history. Built in the 10th century, it was here that the great king Vishnuvardhana met Shantala, explained the local guide. The temple is known for the intricate snake carvings that adorn the window panels of the doorway to the shrine. The intertwined snakes create a mesh-like structure.

Apart from the main linga, there is also a statue of Vishnu. Again, a huge bull sits across the mantapa. The Virabhadra statue carved on the outer walls looks fierce even in ruins. The most amusing and perplexing were the carvings around the temple that are a mix of Panchatantra tales and erotic scenes!

Nearby, in the town centre, is a fierce form of Ganda Berunda, the mythical two-headed bird. Unlike in Keladi or the much gentler Mysore emblem, here the bird is half animal and half human. It’s devouring one human and holding another to devour next!

Apart from these ASI-protected lawn covered temple complexes, the general scene of present-day Balligavi is like any other small town in the State. Agriculture is the main occupation here.

The streets meander across the town with row houses on both sides. Buffaloes take up much of the road and vehicles have a trying time weaving their way through.

The lush green paddy fields, women washing clothes by the river, the occasional mooing of the cows can create an idyllic picture and lull you into a calming frame of mind.

One can almost hear the sound of granite being chipped to create another piece of history.