JOIN USOf eroticism and worship
Tucked away in the corner of Chhattarpur district in Madhya Pradesh, the temple resort serves as one of the greatest landmarks of Indian architecture and is one of the most visited historic sites in India.
We took off from Satna in the wee hours of the morning. It was a 117 km scenic drive from Satna through the ancient town of Nagod and the meandering ghats of Panna National Park along River Ken that brought us to Khajuraho. The land is serene with sprawling forests of Sal, Shagun and Serai trees. A glimpse of Rajgarh Palace made our journey even more memorable.
Once the capital of the Chandela rulers of Bundelkhand, the world heritage site of Khajuraho offers grand and mesmerising views of 25 temples. The Chandelas discovered these temples during the 10th century.
The temples of Khajuraho are built on a high platform without any enclosure; each major compartment has its own roof and has been built in a way that its centre remains the most prominent, which is a common feature in most of these structures. They also have a distinct entrance porch, sanctum and an assembly hall, and are categorised into three divisions — western, eastern and southern groups.
We explored the western group of temples that formed one of the highpoints of our trip. The most striking and sublime creation is the Kandariya Mahadeo Temple. It is devoted to Lord Shiva and stands at 31 metres. Decorated with sculptural designs illustrating cult images, the temple frieze has apsaras, animal sculptures and slender figures with sharp visages. There are numerous erotic figures embellished with fine sculptural blends that come alive as they are carved with emotions and unusual sensitiveness. Some of the finest examples of these monuments are the Vishwanath Temple, devoted to the three-headed Brahma, and the Lakshmana Temple.
Built by King Yashovarman from the Chandela dynasty, the Lakshmana Temple has a series of short, ornate pillars mounted on rail. Lying in the midst of Vishwanath and Kandariya Mahadeo Temple is the Chitragupta Temple — the only temple revering the Sun God. The Chausat Yogini Temple, made of granite, and the Devi Jagadambe Temple are also some of the well-known monuments of this group. In the outer precincts of the western group, the Matangeshwara Temple, honouring Shiva, is the only place of worship in this group.
Later, we visited the Adinath Temple, the largest Jain temple of the town, and the Parasnath Temple. Both structures are part of the eastern group of temples. Some of the remarkable features of the Adinath Temple are its arched doorways with ornamental patterns, dome-shaped ceilings and sculpted figures of yakshas. The Parasnath Temple has sculptures depicting daily chores and has the image of Parasnath, which was installed in 1860. The Hindu temples of this sector are Brahma, Vamana with carvings of apsaras on their outer walls, and Javari temples with highly adorned gateways and sculptures.
But it is the southern group of temples in Khajuraho that are the most exquisite. Of them, the Duladeo Temple adorned with ornamental figures of flying apsaras and legendary nymphs, and the Chaturbhuj Temple, marked by a conspicuous absence of erotic sculptures, are a must-visit. Standing in perfect tranquillity, the Duladeo Temple honours Lord Shiva while the Chaturbhuj Temple has the idol of Vishnu. After treating ourselves to the architectural splendours of Khajuraho, satiated, we stopped by a few workshops of stone carvers nearby that offer replicas of historical monuments. We will return soon...
Travel tips
* How to get there: Khajuraho is well-connected by air with cities like Bhopal, New Delhi, Agra and Varanasi. At a distance of 117 km from Khajuraho, Satna — on the Mumbai-Allahabad route — is the most convenient stopover for tourists departing from Mumbai and Kolkata. For tourists from New Delhi and Chennai, Jhansi is the nearest rail-head and is 172 km from Khajuraho. The closest railway station linking Khajuraho is Mahoba (61 km) that has recently been inaugurated for tourists travelling to the temple resort. Regular bus services ply from Satna, Jhansi, Harpalpur (94 km) and Mahoba.
* Accommodation: The most sought-after temple destination is replete with opulent hotels for global travellers. The five-start haunts include Hotel Taj Chandela, Hotel Khajuraho Ashok, Hotel Jass Oberoi, Clark’s Bundela and Holiday Inn. Madhya Pradesh Tourism-owned plush comforts are Hotel Jhankar, Payal, Raahil and Tourist Village. Budget tourists on a two-day trip will find something in Satna to suit their pocket.
* Best time to visit: July to March.