Dyed textiles as works of delicate art

A first-of-its-kind exhibition, ‘Amoolya’ by textile-maker Neha Puri Dhir, brought together a unique collection of intricately hand-crafted works of textile art.

The pieces presented in this show have been created as part of Dhir’s design practice called Mool. Inspired by the essential beauty of geometry, Mool brings together luxurious fabrics with ancient craft techniques to create unique works of art.

Every work of art that you will encounter here is inimitable and one-of-a-kind. Each bears the mark of the many hands it has passed through: From the spinners and weavers of the silk, to the craftsmen who collaborate with Dhir to make these textile.

The exhibition brings alive Dhir’s great fascination with geometrical shapes, lines and grids. “To me, geometry represents the bridge between art and mathematics. I begin by working with basic shapes and grids, then develop them to represent complex ideas using an essential language of dots and lines. Once these sketches are created, I transpose them to the medium of textiles,” said the artist.

“My inspiration for the pieces in Amoolya are drawn from varied disciplines. Silk sourced from various weaving clusters across India is finely stitched and dyed multiple times. Every pattern is meticulously planned and the colours require precise chemistry. Each step adds complexity to the cloth but even though the entire process is worked out in detail, the work that emerges is an outcome of chance,” added Dhir.

She says she sources her materials from places where she has developed close collaborations with, like, craftsmen over the course of her career. These partnerships bring craft wisdom to the process, enabling her to work with intricate methods like seamless repeats and detailed geometric folding, like washes of colour or the working of needle and thread.

“The people who contribute to these pieces add many layers of interpretation to my every piece of art. Each piece in the exhibition represents a harmony of structure and fluidity, perfection and imperfection, craft and art, freedom and control,” said Dhir. The exhibition recently concluded at the India International Centre.