JOIN USOver the centuries, quite a number of imitations of Taj Mahals have come up all over the world, especially in India and the West Asia. Interestingly, in Agra itself, there is a Red Taj Mahal, built, by a bereaving wife in memory of her husband.
It was built by Ann Hessing, as a tomb for her estranged husband, John Hessing in 1803. Their relationship must have been special as it is clearly rare for a woman to take such pains after a separation! The European interred within the tomb was rather special himself, having attained death fighting against the British on behalf of the Marathas! Ann Hessing built it 211 years ago, when he died in 1803. This monument also known as Hessing’s Taj, is in the Catholic cemetery in the city of Taj and is known as the most beautiful memorial built for any foreigner in India.
Colonel John William Hessing was a Dutch soldier and trader. He had come to India from Ceylon, now Sri Lanka, (which then was under the Dutch) sometime in the late 18th century. He participated in the battle of Kandy in 1765. He was a native of Utrecht in Holland and was born in 1739. He served under the Nizam of Hyderabad in 1784 and the Marathas. He later joined the service of Mahadaji Scindia and accompanied him to Pune in 1792. He fought several battles under the French General Du Boigne. On Mahadaji’s death in 1794, he came to Agra which was held by the Marathas. He was made Commandant of fort and its Maratha garrison in 1799. He died here on July 21, 1803, defending the fort against the British.
His wife, Ann, decided to build a memorial tomb for him and decided to model it on the immortal Taj Mahal, so clearly prominent in Agra. But her funds were limited and she had barely Rs one lakh to complete her task. Since she could not afford marble for her labour of love she decided to use red sandstone for the edifice. She could not afford to build four minarets in four corners. One can see the base for minarets which could not be erected because money was used up. As such, she had to be content with four cupolas at the top corner of the Red Taj.
The Red Taj Mahal is a smaller, red sandstone imitation of the stately Taj
Mahal. Even the Catholic cemetery of Agra, where the Red Taj is situated is one of the oldest of the Christian cemeteries in India. It was Mughal Emperor Akbar, who gave permission for the cemetery almost five centuries ago to the local Catholics. A majority of the graves here date back to the 16th and 17th centuries and almost all of them belong to European travellers and explorers.
Surprisingly, the graves are given a Mughal touch and they closely resemble Islamic tombs. The most distinguishing and elaborate tomb is the mini Hessing’s Taj here. The tomb is frequently referred to as the Red Taj. This is rather unfair as it makes it sound as though Hessing’s tomb is little more than a cheap imitation of the Taj Mahal, whereas it very much has its own identity. The architecture is similar in certain respects, but the design of the tomb is in the final analysis just not that much like the Taj Mahal. The building itself, which betrays hardly any European architectural influences, is considered one of the finest European tombs in India. In style the mausoleum is entirely Mughal, despite the fact that Hessing was a Christian.
The entrance has two Persian inscriptions, one of which is the epitaph and the other a chronogram. This tomb stands on a square platform which is about 11 feet high and 58 feet side, containing a crypt with the real grave and corridor around it. An octagonal chabutara is attached to each corner in the form of a mini-tower.
Twin stairways are also attached to it on the western of side. The tomb reposed effectively in the middle of main platform. Each façade has an iwan in the middle, flanked on either side of ornamental double peshtaq (alcoves). It is
essentially a Mughal design. Slender turrets are attached to the central iwan-frame. They are crowned by pinnacles. Square turrets are attached to the corner of the tomb.
These have vertical flutes and are surrounded by beautiful square chhatris. The tomb is roofed by a double dome, crowned by mahapadma (Sheath of lotus petals) and Kalash finial. With pinnacles and chhatris of the turrets, it makes up a perfect superstructure. The interior square chamber has ribs and panels. The Cenotaph bears an inscription in English. As a whole, it is perfectly balanced and beautiful building and rightly called “The Taj in Miniature”.
The decoration on the facade is simple and it comprises four arches surrounding a large central arched gateway which leads to the coffin. Although the tomb lacks the opulence and grandeur of the original monument, visitors can see the earnest intent of the soldier’s wife.
Encompassed by a well-maintained lush green garden, the Red Taj Mahal is a
hidden gem amid the urban setup of the city centre.