JOIN USA dazzling display of wealth belonging to the Wettins in Saxony, Green Vault Museum houses some of the priceless treasures owned by the powerful regime. Melanie P Kumar visits the trove of hidden treasures.
Entering the Grunes Gewolb or Green Vault Museum in Dresden, the capital of Saxony, was like entering Ali Baba’s cave. The only difference was that instead of having to say, “Open Sesame,” to be let in, there were security formalities to undergo before finding oneself in the midst of dazzling splendour.
The New Green Vault and Historical Green Vault are two sections, which are a part of the Dresden State Art Collections. But before one gets to them, it is the sight of the majestic Dresden Castle that holds one in thrall. Inside, the guide provides a historical overview of what awaits visitors and I understand that while the New Green Vault focuses on individual objects, the Historical Green Vault has its treasures spread across several rooms, each with a specific name, based on the items on display. Inside these Vaults are lodged the largest collection of treasures in Europe, and after seeing the display, one is convinced that it must be so.
Historic role
Dresden Castle was home to the Electors (leaders) who ruled over Saxony between 1547 and 1806. The name Green Vault originated from the green malachite, which was used for some of the architectural modifications in the west wing. Initially, the Electors used these rooms to house their documents and other precious possessions. It is only during the reign of Frederic Augustus I, also known as Augustus the Strong, that the collection was augmented with many Baroque and other treasures from across the world, including India, and thrown open for public display.
The treasures remained in the same state for two decades, till looming war clouds resulted in them being moved to the Konigstein Fortress for safe-keeping. During the World War II, Dresden faced acute carpet-bombings from the Allies, resulting in severe damage to the Green Vault. Its treasures were carried away to Russia by the Red Army and fortunately returned to its rightful place in 1958. The state of Saxony deserves praise for managing to rebuild the bombed portions of the Castle and for restoring the grandeur of what is now known as the New Green and Historical Green Vaults. It is mind-boggling to think that I have been privy to witnessing 4,000 pieces of treasure, across the two chambers.
The Historical Green Vault employs a theme-based arrangement in baroque settings, made even more dramatic by the use of ornate mirrors, which afford multiple reflections of the precious items displayed on gilt consoles. Everything around is guaranteed to dazzle one’s senses. After sighting the Amber Cabinet, I amble taking in all the beauties of the Ivory Room, the White Silver Room, the Silver Gilt Room, until I arrive at the Hall of Precious Objects. The mirrors that surround this room are silvered with mercury, increasing the shining effect of the gems and crystal works on show.
Next, I arrive at the Coat of Arms or Heraldry Room, which shows the majestic coat of arms of the Saxon provinces, among the other displays. The Jewel Chamber is perhaps the grandest part of the tour. It has to be seen to be believed, as it carries some notable items, which no visitor will miss or ever forget. Among these is ‘The Moor with the Emerald Cluster’, whose creation in 1724 is attributed both to the royal goldsmith, Johann Melchior Dinglinger, and his sculptor friend, Balthasar Permoser, though the jury is still out on that one, with other names figuring too.
Crafted at the behest of Augustus the Strong, this statue reaches up to 2.09 feet in height and is studded with precious stones, among which are 16 dark-green emeralds held in a cluster, by the Moor. These were said to have been gifted to Elector Augustus, a namesake ancestor of the House of Wettin, by his friend, Emperor Rudolph II, when he visited him in Prague in 1581, though these gems had their origins in a Colombian mine. The other feasts for the eyes in this Chamber are the 7.5 feet-high Obelisk, studded with precious stones and bearing a portrait of Augustus the Strong, at the centre of the Monument.
Treasured legacy
The next part of my tour is a visit to the New Green Vault, located on the first floor of the Castle. I am again bedazzled at the sight of the accumulated treasures of the Electors and Kings of Saxony.
There are about a 1,000 precious works displayed in showcases and I have to make a choice about where to linger. One has to give it to the Germans for their sense of style and precision, as they have employed anti-glare glass and the perfect amount of lighting to afford a closer look and finer understanding of the nuances of each masterpiece. The credit goes to the earlier mentioned court jeweller, Dinglinger, for creating some of the finest items on display here like the ‘Royal Household of the Grand Mogul,’ and the ‘Golden Coffee Service.’
The ‘Royal Household’ piece, intended to simulate the grandeur of Mughal king Aurangzeb on the occasion of his birthday, though imagined, seems to me like a fairly close representation of a Mughal court. It was created between 1701 and 1708, using 4,909 diamonds, 164 emeralds, 160 rubies, a sapphire, 16 pearls and two cameos.
Another not-to-be-missed exhibit here is the Green Diamond, set in what could be the world’s most expensive hat, as this is the most valued stone in this Vault. At 41 carats, it is among the largest diamonds in the world, and worthy of mention is the fact of it being extracted from the Kollur mine in the Guntur district of Andhra Pradesh in the early 1700s.
By augmenting his Treasury with more and more priceless creations between 1723 and 1730, Augustus the Strong fulfilled his dream of a Baroque Gesamtkunstwerk or synthesis that stood as a symbol for the wealth and power of the Wettins. His decision to throw these exhibits open for public viewing probably had his subjects as enthralled as visitors from many centuries later, like me, who came out in a daze into the sunlight and wondered why its light seemed to have paled a bit!