JOIN USA bridge, as we all know, is something that connects. But, have you heard of a bridge that connects time with timelessness, nature with art? In picture-perfect, romantic Prague, Charles Bridge gives the enchanted traveller an opportunity to experience the magic of the ancient Kingdom of Bohemia and the high-tech, modern façade of the present-day capital of Czech Republic, all at once.
Prague, also known as the city of towers, could well be called the city of bridges, too. While there are many newer bridges dotting the banks of River Vltava, Charles Bridge, with its unmistakable beauty and the teeming crowds that throng it, is simply the most magnificent of them all.
Just as you are about to set foot on to the weathered grey stones, catch your breath, and then slowly turn around. You will see two bridge towers soaring in the background. They may appear to be mismatched in height, but are majestic enough to stop you dead in your tracks.
Of course, after you manage to tear your eyes away from them — obviously not before you have taken in all their splendid architectural detailing — look straight ahead to catch the glimpse of, what else, but another tower. This one is even grander. It’s the Old Town Bridge Tower, considered one of the most amazing Gothic constructions in the world.
A historic structure
Charles Bridge is the main pedestrian route that connects Old Town with the MaláStrana, literally, the ‘Lesser City’ or the New Town. Although there are many modes of transportation available to reach Old Town — there’s bus, buggy, tram and even the metro — nothing can compare to a luxurious stroll over the bridge.
Okay, before we begin our walk, for all those history buffs here is some textbook information to take in. The bridge was commissioned by King Charles IV in 1357 and his favourite architect and builder, Peter Parler, oversaw the majority of the work.
The initial idea was to do functional construction for knight tournaments, and for many years the only decoration on the bridge was a simple crucifix. Later, however, the Catholic desire for ornamentation resulted in 30 statues being erected between 1600 and 1800. So, as you start walking across the 516-metre-long structure, the first things you will notice are 30 baroque-style statues on either side. But, wait, these are merely replicas; the 16th century originals are now housed in the National Museum. However, an untrained eye could never really spot the difference!
If there are nice broad steps to take you up to the bridge, then its 10-metre width can easily accommodate big crowds without it becoming a tight squeeze. Feeding the geese on the Vltava banks is the first fun activity I decided to do. The birds are so used to multitudes of tourists that they come and take the feed right off your hands. Children enjoy them thoroughly, and they play to the gallery by creating quite a noise.
In the meantime, those interested in art can walk ahead and observe true blue street sketch artists in action. If you are game, then sit a while and get a portrait done. A few deft strokes and just 20 minutes later, you will have your likeness in your hands. Charges for this artwork — anywhere between 50 to 100 Euros. There is one woman who specialises in children’s portraits and another in caricatures. A few use charcoal as their medium for that authentic feel.
Art central
Half way down the bridge is a different group of performers showing off their talent. There’s one large band belting out smooth jazz melodies, while there are varied musicians scattered further along — a banjo player, a flautist and a violinist.
Stand within listening distance of any one of them and simply soak in the sights and sounds before you — the high mountains in the far horizon, Baroque and Gothic structures dotting the skyline, some boats or a pleasure-liner cruising in the still waters and a blue sky smothering them all. Can it get any more, well, divine?
Indeed, I literally did get to experience the divine right there as well. I happened to catch a group of people worshipping at the Holy Crucifix, one of the statues along the bridge. Apart from this one, there are the statues of St Luthgard, St John of Nepomuk and Knight Bruncvik. These, too, are replicas though. This is no surprise considering the Charles Bridge has been ravaged by many wars and natural disasters over the centuries and, consequently, has had to undergo several rounds of renovations and restorations.
While painters and musicians enthrall people with their immense talents, the souvenir sellers captivate with their wares. Pick up anything from exquisite jewellery, hairpins and other trinkets to conventional knick-knacks as give-aways. But, if that is too unimaginative a distraction, then you should know that I got to meet a gentleman who put his head on his dog and expected people to tip him for it! That passersby did appreciate the humour in the situation and gave him money was even more amusing.
After tiring yourself out with all the walking — it can take up to two hours to go from one end to the other — do sit in one of the quaint cafes that line the river bank and sip on an excellent cup of freshly-brewed coffee. Keep at least half a day to enjoy the delights of Charles Bridge and a day to explore Old Town.
Once in old Prague, you must buy garnets — the quality of the gem is fantastic, although the price is high. Another interesting buy here is meteorite jewellery. How funky would it be to wear trinkets made out of rocks that were once hurtling through space! Save, woman, save for this one, as the cheapest items would leave you lighter by around Rs 40,000 to Rs 50,000. Have more money? Then look at the sparkling Swarowski crystals or metal tea cups and kettles.
But, if all this is fervently consumerist for you, treat yourself to the simple, sumptuous snack of fried potatoes piled high on to a barbecue stick to feel at home with the locals. It’s easy on the pocket, delicious and quintessential Praha. On or off Charles Bridge, Prague has a feast of sensations to offer to the eager traveller.
Women’s Feature Service