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Falling for Switzerland

Rare sites
Last Updated 11 July 2015, 16:52 IST

Switzerland is a dream destination for tourists. Its snow-capped mountain peaks, the green grassy pastoral meadows. Yes! The list of the things to see in Switzerland is endless. But one of my most fascinating experiences in the country was a trip to the Trümmelbach Falls, located in the Lauterbrunnen Valley, Interlaken.

Lauterbrunnen is popularly known as the valley of 72 waterfalls, and Trümmelbach Falls is one of them. It is Europe’s largest subterranean waterfall, which is formed by a series of 10 glacier waterfalls inside a mountain fed by the melted ice of the Jungfrau, Monch and Eiger Peaks at the rate of 20,000 litres per second.

We did not know what to expect as the approach to the fall does not give us a clue about the magnificence of the falls for they are ensconced in a corset of stone. We could only see dark slot canyons. The only way to get a gilmpse of the falls was to climb up the subterranean walk and see the falls through the various chutes.

Roaring cascades

Nestling deep in a slot canyon, carved out by the pounding waters and cascading on a circle of stone, the Trümmelbach Falls are indeed unique. The tight confines of the slot canyon and the force of the churning water have sculpted the walls of the canyon into interesting shapes and patterns.

Accessible by lift, galleries, tunnels and platforms, this waterfall is tucked right amidst a rocky cave. So, going up the slot canyon meant that we could do the excursion despite bad weather. After paying a nominal fare, we entered the gate leading to a funicular lift that rose up a dark tunnel and transported us straight to the level of Chute No 5. There were 10 chutes in all and we started from the fifth chute and proceeded upwards. 

We climbed around the walkway that circled Chute No 6. As we ascended the rock-hewn stairs to the next level, we peeped into the twisty abyss as the waters plunged and roared down the canyon. We were treated to glorious views of the Lauterbrunnen Valley, the Staubbach Falls in the north and the Aegerlenbach Falls and Murrenbach Falls in the south.

Swiss speciality

One must indeed applaud the ingenuity of the Swiss, who without disturbing nature, have given tourists an opportunity to view the falls with safety. Small look-outs and cut-outs provide viewing points to the 10 chutes that fall into foaming pools and then disappear into darkness. The barricades blended with the rustic rock-hewn peep holes making it seem absolutely natural.

Following the artificially lit confines of the slippery path beside the gushing stream, we made it up to Chute No 7, only to be sprayed with icy water. The chutes above were enveloped in mist strewn by the crashing waters. A daylight danced and pranced through the slots, creating a rainbow effect on the churning water. Finally groping our way through slippery corridors, we emerged at the compact Chute No 10 — a dead-end from where the waters crashed into a plunge pool.

We descended to Chute No 4 and viewed the falls as they plunged, pirouetted and corkscrewed their way down to Lauterbrunnen Valley. For, at this level, the watercourse swirled tightly into a corkscrew formation that is world famous. Further below, the path opened up into daylight and we could see the last two chutes below with only a foot bridge between them. A water wall spilled on to the bridge making it precariously slippery. We ascended to the right of the funicular entrance along the cliff to catch a glimpse of water crashing on into the river running down Lauterbrunnen Valley.

Throughout the climb, we were conscious of the presence of the waterfall with its thunderous roar in the backdrop — now rising in a crescendo of deafening noise and then growing faint with a gentle ripple like demure murmur. The sound of the cascade in the interior of the mountain echoed in our ears long after we left the place.  


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(Published 11 July 2015, 16:52 IST)

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