JOIN USIran today can be called “Khomeiniland”. Yes, that is the impression outsiders may get after exploring the ancient country once home to the mighty Persian Empire. The legacy of their late leader Ayatollah Khomeini, who led a bloody revolution to transmute Iran from a pro-American kingdom to an Islamic state, is explicitly evident in every nook and corner. There is no city, town or village in Iran where a street, square, mosque or a monument doesn’t bear his name.
The Khomeini factor
In Tehran, the nation’s capital and main getaway city, we land at the newly-built Imam Khomeini International Airport, wander around the buzzing Khomeini Square, observe Islam in action at the Imam Khomeini Mosque and glance his portrait with prominent eyebrows and stern expression almost everywhere. In fact, we began our Iran odyssey by visiting Khomeini’s mausoleum, located between the airport and the city. Dominated by four towers and a huge gilded dome, this site is one of the grandest endeavours to immortalise the Islamic revolution. Khomeini’s tomb rests inside a large hall in an enclosure decorated with stained glass depicting tulips, an Iranian symbol of martyrdom. Grand chandeliers illuminate the interior and make Islamic inscriptions and artwork on walls, columns and floor carpets distinctly visible.
After becoming world’s first Islamic Republic in 1979, politically, Iran became a pariah state with many horror stories streaming out about its confrontational policies with the West, religious fundamentalism and treatment of woman. Tourists hardly made a trip to Iran, a land rich in historic and natural attractions. However, the situation in the country has changed considerably.
Rich in history and cultural heritage, Iran is often touted as the cradle of civilisation. The National Museum in Tehran is a great place to grasp a fair knowledge of the land, which glorified itself through several phases of imperialism, till Khomeini ended it with the revolution.
Like any Indian metropolis, Tehran is loud and chaotic, but full of life. The uneven mix of Western and Islamic elements are clearly visible. The key sights that rank at the top of any touristy itinerary are the palaces and museums, most significant being the Golestan Palace complex, which shows the excesses of the 18th century Qajar rulers who first made Tehran a capital city. The attractions here include the 54-room White Palace, outside of which two bronze boots of the 20th century monarch Reza Shah still stand as remains of his giant statue cut down to size during the revolution, the National Jewels Museum, the Carpet Museum and the Grand Bazaar, which is like a city within a city.
History & culture
Charisma of Iran extends far beyond Tehran. With many World Heritage sites, Iran is a fairly large domain. One can admire the ancient structures of Persepolis, experience the waning Zoroastrian faith in Yazd, said to be the oldest living city on earth, visit amazing natural beauties of Harra mangroves, hike up the Alborz Mountain, swim in the Caspian Sea, or explore the earlier capital cities of Tabriz, Mashhad, Shiraz and Esfahan.
Given its scale and large cluster of buildings, ranging from palaces, mosques, squares, libraries, public baths and ornamented bridges to gardens, fountains and a sprawling market, Esfahan was once known as “Half of the World”. With over a million inhabitants, the city was then one of the largest metropolis in the world and a treasury of Persian art, culture, science and architecture, many elements of which were later adopted in other parts of the Islamic world. Despite having lost its original charm, Esfahan still captivates visitors, particularly the Naqsh-e-Jahan Square where palaces and imposing mosques, all connected by a series of two-story arcades, surround a sprawling garden area.
Moving on to Shiraz, an ancient settlement synonymous with nightingales, poetry and wine. It’s said that when poet laureate Rabindranath Tagore visited Iran in 1932, he described the gardens in Shiraz as dreamlands where poets sat around with their wine cups and invoked visions of ineffable meanings.
Iranians are known for their hospitality. They never start their meals until the guests are served. They are proactive to start a conversation to know outside views about their country while assuring there is nothing to be afraid of in Iran. Their English is not that good; they speak Farsi, our Urdu being a derivative of that.
Fact File
Getting There: Fly Emirates (www.emirates.com) via Dubai to Tehran
Accommodation: Iran offers many options to suit every budget; Parsian Enqhelab Hotel (www.enghelabhotel.com) in Tehran being a good choice.
Best Time to Visit: February to April and September to November
Currency: Iranian Rial; INR 1 = 500 IRR (approx.)
Visa: Require a visa to enter Iran.
Check newdelhi.mfa.ir for details