JOIN USA tryst with nature and intricate architecture
None are more hopelessly enslaved than those who falsely believe they are free.— Johann Wolfgang
Von Goethe
I had heard a lot about Khajuraho, of its artistic reverence, sensual carvings and, of course, history, as unfolded in its sandstone temples. So, I decided to take a ‘quick flight’ and head to this UNESCO World Heritage Site which attracts travellers from all across the globe.
Built by the Chandela Rajputs in medieval India, Khajuraho temple in Madhya Pradesh present a fabric of exquisite carvings and detailed craftsmanship in stone depicting divine deities, celestial maidens, eternal lovers, gods and goddesses that celebrate the divine art of physical togetherness.
As I curiously headed towards the temples after having a sumptuous lunch, all I was concerned about was the direction of sunlight at that time of the day. I wanted to capture the beauty of these figures in their divine glory.
There are three complexes– western, southern and eastern where the temples are located, with the western block being the most prominent. My guide, a Bundelkhandi, who initially tried speaking to me in English. But when I told him that I am from Allahabad and understood Hindi, the relationship changed from a tourist-guide to some kind of ‘sons of the soil’. Though I am not always keen to take a guide along, but, at times, it is important to hire because they always have some interesting anecdotes and facts
to share.
The walk through the corridors of the temple is an enchanting experience and will definitely take you to an era that is exotic and bold in its nature. Fascinated and charmed, I continued clicking pictures and was awed by the elevated-plinth architecture that sets a fine example of intricate craftsmanship.
Other than the exquisite temples, Khajuraho doesn’t have much to offer to the tourists. Eating out is bliss as there are many Mediterranean, Italian and Israeli joints dotted around the city, catering to international tourists. There is no night life, and most of the tourists wine and dine within the boundaries of their resorts.
However, a real surprise was waiting for me. As my guide proposed that I should be exploring nature’s untouched bounty which lay unexplored just 20 kms away from the town, I decided to head towards Raneh Falls, a natural water fall on the Ken River.
The road moves through fields and villages, where it looks as if time has stood still. Devoid of any development, this hinterland is a blessing in disguise. A short drive through the forest and the first glimpse of the terrain exposes the hidden gem that seems to have been guarded secretly to not temper with its majestic beauty.
I am told that the Ken River flows through the flood-scoured rocks that have created deep volcanic gorges, which are made of pure crystalline granite in varying shades of colours -- ranging from pink and red to grey.
It was raining that day and the Ken was in full volcanic eruption. The torrent flow from a large flat plateau into the deep gorge effectuated into a milky froth churned vehemently by the rocks and gave rise to misty and bracing air around. There we were told that when the river is in its full fury, the water level rises to the height of the cliffs and it becomes dangerous to venture in the vicinity. I didn’t care much as the mesmerising site offered a breathtaking view. If Khajuraho temples are amongst the wonders of medieval India then Raneh Falls are no less. Both are masterpieces and those visiting Madhya Pradesh should definitely visit the falls.
Being a nature lover, the experience turned out to be a cherry on the cake and the best part is that the falls are still untouched and aren’t flooded by the tourists.
Apart from this, a visit to Khajuraho can be clubbed with Panna Tiger Reserve, Pandav Falls and the Ken Gharial Sanctuary. This state offers history in sandstone, along with nature in abundance. The place also offers accommodation to fit into every kind of budget. What is also worth noting is that the state tourism has given emphasis to cleanliness has kept a tight check on touts. The temple complexes are surrounded by well-maintained manicured garden and streets too aren’t littered with garbage.
When the mind, body and soul need spiritual and mental peace, this place has much to offer. I had a beautiful sojourn and explored fascinating architecture marvel and nature’s hidden bounty.
Ajit Eusebius
The writer is a Senior Administrative Officer at Emmanuel Hospital Association, New Delhi.