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Victoria's secrets

Canadian experience
Last Updated 25 July 2015, 18:44 IST

We set sail on the Prince of Whales to get up close with the king of the high seas, the Orcinus orca or the dramatically called “killer whale”. Before embarking on the three-hour whale-spotting trip on the Salish Sea, in the Pacific north-west, off the coast of Victoria, I viewed a video clip on the black and white orca, one of the best-known among all cetaceans.

Somehow the “killer” title just did not seem to fit such a friendly, playful mammal, known for its remarkable intelligence. Whales are cousins of the dolphins who are considered man’s best marine friend with reams of newsprint having been devoted to its many rescue acts involving swimmers and divers. Chalk and cheese, the two cousins? Once aboard, my musings were almost instantly answered when our spry naturalist informed the orca could measure up to 32 ft and weigh an enormous 8,000 kg. “One slap of its tail and we could all be relished,” she joked, immediately allaying fears that it never does happen that way. Besides, the walrus, sea-lion and seal were some palate favourites of the orca. The dolphin was also eaten. Yes, the cousins were different. 

All eyes were eagerly trained on the vast blue to try and spot the orca, its usual position being logging, which translates into resting on the water surface exposing its upper back and part of its dorsal fin. In that pose it almost gives an impression of a partially submerged aircraft with a wing intact. The well-informed naturalist kept us occupied with marine trivia, the passion for her job shining through at all times. I’m prone to motion sickness and the choppy waters did cause a few rumblings but the keenness to get acquainted with the orca kept all upheavals at bay.

Quaint & contemporary

As we notched nautical miles, it was beginning to appear the orca was not in an obliging mood. Alas! It was just not our day, despite the best efforts of captain Jeff, who kept in touch with other vessels to hear of any sighting. A pair of sun-bathing sea lions was the only reward we got; this hit and miss being part of the joys of exploring a natural habitat. Once ashore we were given a voucher which confirmed we had not said hello to the whales and were welcome to try again anytime, for free. The validity of the card: “for life, until you do”! “This is no gimmick. It’s our commitment to guests that we want to give them an experience of a lifetime,” said the young lady handling the ticket counter, adding, “It’s a daily challenge to spot the whales as they never stop moving. The orcas can relocate over 150 km away in just 24 hours.”

Victoria, the capital of British Columbia, is just across the Strait of Georgia, about 100 km away, from Vancouver, but a world away from the flamboyance that marks Canada’s third largest metropolis. Dainty and quieter, it retains an intensely British-Irish charm. Nowhere is that more personified than its harbour-fronted touristy Downtown, a matrix of cute streets with quaint shops, lively pubs serving Canada’s famous caesar cocktail by the minute and buzzing cafés offering delectable Pacific salmon or succulent prime ribs. I was staying at the sleek green-key property on Humboldt Street, in the heart of Downtown, and whenever there was time on hand, I merrily explored the lanes, enjoying their colours and friendly air.

What caught my attention was shopfronts, particularly on Government Street. In an age when brands boringly hog most billboards, I was delighted to see signages as Button and Needlework Boutique, Irish Linen Store, Roberta’s Hats or Beehive Wool Shop. These were shops in a premium area selling ware primarily used during leisure hours. The art of slow travel is being promoted the world over; I felt stepping into these attractive spaces was all about the art of slow shopping... going home with buttons you required to sew on to a cardigan your mum was knitting!

Flower power

Walking the streets, I turned up outside Flowers on Top, a florist shop selling unbelievably beautiful peonies. I couldn’t resist feeling them to see if they were real. The collection of gorgeous flowers reminded me of my trip to the Butchart Gardens, one of the top attractions of Victoria. The postcard-perfect manicured space was a riot of colours. The gardens were laid at different levels and each had an impressive floral profusion, with over a hundred varieties of shy perennials and sprightly annuals welcoming visitors to a very Victorian setting.

According to legend, the idea of this garden was conceived over a century ago when Jennie Butchart decided to create something alluring in the exhausted limestone quarry her husband owned. Seed by seed the quarry blossomed into this spectacular sunken garden. I was intrigued by the Blue Poppy theme found all over the garden. My query yields a delightful answer: It was Mrs Butchart’s favourite flower and had been brought here by her British workers from India.

Victorian traditions

History says the tradition of English afternoon tea was created by the seventh Duchess of Bedford Anna Maria Russell in 1840. This was her way out to soothe hunger pangs between the two main meals of the day, breakfast and dinner. With the passage of time the ritual became trendy among the affluent and soon came to be regarded as a popular custom of British lifestyle. One of the grandest traditions in Victoria is Afternoon Tea at The Fairmont Empress which is where I savoured a sip of this vintage tradition.

The beautifully-located iconic structure overlooks the inner harbour and is adjacent to another landmark, the grandiose Legislative Building which has Queen Victoria’s statue in the front lawns and George Vancouver atop the central dome. Inside or out, it’s picturesque in all respects.

As the clock struck 2 pm, I saw myself seated in quintessential Victorian environs described aptly on the Empress website: “surrounded by rich chintz fabrics, antiqued tapestries and rugs, elegant wing back chairs, vintage furnishings and hand-carved tables...”

The evergreen soundtrack of My Fair Lady was perfect for the time and mood; and looking at my crushed travel outfit I felt quite Eliza Doolittle myself! Soon service began with a flourish. The feted strawberry and cream arrived, followed by the three-tiered tray where lay the goodies: scones, pinwheels, croissants, jams, tarts, shortbread and more.

My vegetarian dietary preferences were well taken care off. I’m not much of a tea drinker, but the Empress Blend was delightful and the fact that it was served in patterned china similar to which was used for King George VI and Queen Elizabeth during the royal visit in 1939, heightened the experience. If I were to pick a highlight from the trip, this was it. Had the orca been spotted, it might have been a different story.

Factfile

 How to get there

Take a ferry (www.bcferries.com) or the sea plane from Vancouver.
Don’t miss
Royal BC Museum, especially for Our Living Languages exhibition.  
Must eat at
Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub (www.spinnakers.com).  



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(Published 25 July 2015, 16:44 IST)

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