JOIN USMy destination was a remote corner of India. The journey was along winding roads on perilous cliffs, azure lakes and mysterious, snow-capped peaks. My trip to Sikkim and Bhutan in the Himalayas turned out to be one that would remain forever etched in the mind and in the heart.
In Tibetan, the word Nathu-la means pass of the listening ears. The pass connects Sikkim with China’s Tibet Autonomous Region and is located at a height of 14,140 feet. It is a part of the ancient Silk Route, located 54 km from Gangtok, the capital city of Sikkim in the Himalayas. In 1962, following Indo-Chinese skirmishes, the pass was sealed until 2006, and later when bilateral trade agreements were signed, it was reopened.
Journey to the top
Weather is a crucial factor for travel here. The fragile environment is prone to frequent storms and landslides. At Gangtok, I was awaiting clearance to enter Nathula, which I got just 10 hours before my scheduled departure. There was palpable excitement in the air. The doctor in the group pointed out the risks involved in travelling to such heights and gave a word of caution. The trip from Lachung in North Sikkim to the sacred Gurudongmar Lake at a height of 16,000 feet resulted in Acute Mountain Sickness.
In comparison, Nathula involved a greater climb, though lower in altitude, with not much time to get acclimatised to the height. After much deliberation, with a prayer and a hope, I decided to go for it!
The next morning, starting off early from Gangtok, I reached the checkpost where the Restricted Area Pass (RAPs), which I had obtained earlier, was scrutinised. I was then travelling on one of the highest motorable roads in the world. The drivers manoeuvred the cars with remarkable skill, on hair-pin bends and pot-holed roads strewn with huge boulders. The higher reaches were gradually becoming devoid of vegetation, which further compounded the problem of low oxygen levels. There were few habitations on the 54 km route, though a number of defence personnel and people from the Border Roads Organisation were seen braving the weather to carry out road work.
I stopped at the picturesque Lake Tsongo or Changu, which is at an altitude of 12,000 feet. This one-km-long lake, set in picturesque surroundings, is considered to be sacred and is worshipped by the Sikkimese. Legend has it that monks examine the colour of the water in the lake and can predict the future. The locals were having a field day attracting tourists to take rides on the gaily-caparisoned yaks! After the customary photo stop, I proceeded on the rugged terrain, all the while admiring the mountains clothed in snow and sometimes the rush of a waterfall hidden around a corner. I drove past many more mountain lakes with eyes riveted on the spectacular scenery around me.
Nathula was blistery and on alighting from the vehicle, I was frozen to the bone despite all the woollens. There were steps leading to the famed pass that cuts down the travel to major Hindu and Buddhist religious centres in the area. Nathula Pass also promotes trade, thereby strengthening the economy of both India and China. I was informed that there are some Chinese markets where one could browse, but was disappointed when I did not come across any.
Hint of patriotism
Tourists and locals don’t miss a halt at the famous Baba Mandir, which is a shrine built in honour of Harbhajan Singh, a brave soldier who died in the region and whose spirit is said to protect everyone there. It was a strenuous climb up to the Army building, past the war memorial and the Indian tricolour. I was gasping for breath in the rarified atmosphere, and finally was relieved to be in the warmth of the Army headquarters where I relished some piping hot tea and biscuits.
A senior Army officer explained the nature of their work which is mainly to guard the frontier even under the extreme weather conditions and to ensure nation’s safety. He said that the winter temperatures can go down to -25°C. He escorted me up a snow-covered path to the barbed wire fence, the border across which lies China. The Chinese flagpole in the territory could be seen from close quarters and I could go right up to the Chinese guard who obliged me with a friendly handshake! That was indeed a close encounter, but it dispelled any feeling of enmity one might have had.
There were no ceremonial displays here like in Wagah, the Indo-Pakistan checkpost, but the challenges that faujis have to face, their tenacity and tremendous spirit prompted me to salute their valiant efforts. Standing in attention, everybody sang the National Anthem in unison and in hushed voices, ending with the cry “Jai Hind” in muted tones, as it was not supposed to be heard at the border. I then began my descent towards the vehicle. The exhilaration of being in the lap of the majestic mountains, though formidable, admiration for our brave jawans, the thrill of having made it to Nathula successfully, all added up to an experience of a lifetime!
Fact file
Restricted Area Pass is issued on submission of IDs and photographs. Only Indian nationals are permitted and no vehicle is allowed to start the journey from here after 12 pm.
Other places: Rumtek Monastery, also called the Dharmachakra Centre, is a beautiful place of worship, which is worth a visit.
Yumthang Valley, situated in north Sikkim, is home to many beautiful Himalayan flowers.
Yuksom is a historical town in west Sikkim district. It was the first capital of Sikkim established in 1642 AD by Phuntsog Namgyal who was the first Chogyal of Sikkim.