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Silent night in Hallein

Austrian winters
Last Updated 19 September 2015, 18:34 IST
“Stille Nacht, Heilige Nacht! Alles schlaft, ein-sam wacht...” This beautiful Christmas carol was being sung in German, in the darkened church, where the organ music was played with the accompaniment of the violin/guitar and the choir sang on Christmas eve night.

It was pure magic. As the strains of the song died down, I was left dumbstruck. For it was here in Hallein, a small, cosy town, with River Salzach flowing through and surrounded by majestic mountains, that Franz Gruber, the composer of the carol, belonged and was laid to rest.

Hallein is an old town in Salzburg, Austria. Half an hour ride from Salzburg, the town is close to the German border and to Hitler’s “Eagle’s Nest”. It probably derives its name from the Greek word halas meaning salt. Although it has a small population of around 20,000, Hallein is the second largest and second prettiest town of the Salzburg state.

Salty city

Salt “white gold” deposits created millions of years ago in the Dürrnberg, near Hallein, have provided the region with its treasure. A Celtic community settled here more than 4,000 years ago from 600 BC until the Romans took it over in 15 BC. The Celts were already mining the precious mountain resource of salt from the mine in the Dürrnberg plateau, as is evident from the traces they left behind. Hidden deep underground, the Salzwelten salt mines in Hallein, one of the oldest in the world, offer a really exciting tour which includes a train ride, boat ride and cross border trek — all underground!

A treasure hunt offers great fun as one follows the ancient miners’ tunnels for many kilometres into the mountain. Salt extraction at Hallein contributed largely to the wealth of Salsburg, competing with the salt production in Bad Reichenhall across the border in Germany. Hallein is also called “Little Turkey” because of the large labour force which came here from Turkey. They have settled down comfortably here and built their own mosque close to the many churches in the area. In fact the kebap is a famous local snack and the carton of their Turkish curd lor and well-known pastry borek are simply delicious.

Our walk on the bridge over the Salzach river was really picturesque with the towering Untersberg mountains looming dark on the horizon. As it snowed continuously, all sidewalks became small hills to climb. The view of the quaint, cobblestone streets, probably from the 15th century with the halo of the neon lamps delighted me.

Being so close to Germany, and with Austria being the starting point of Hitler’s war, Hallein was the site of a work camp connected to the Dachau concentration camp during World War II. After the war, a displaced persons camp came up there. A school was started in the barracks, teaching technical subjects like tailoring, dressmaking, electrical and radio technology, baking, beautician training, and upholstery and later English to over 200 students. After the closure of other displaced persons camps, Hallein became the Austrian collection point for the Jews emigrating to Canada and the US.

Sights & sounds

The Celtic Lightning is the longest summer toboggan in the Province of Salzburg. A ride from the mountain station of the cable-car to the valley offers visitors great 360º views from the Untersberg to the Dachstein Mountains.

Those interested in some outdoor fun and action can go on the monkey swing or the spider’s web. The more adventurous can try the rope park at Kletterpark Waldbad, Anif. For the lion-hearted, the “Speed Flying Fox” starts at a height of 20 metres, zipping across the lake on a rope-slide at speeds of up to 60 km/hour.

Hallein boasts of two museums of historic and musical interest. The Keltenmuseum displays the artefacts and tales of the Celtic cultures while showing the development of salt mining in the region. The Silent Night (Stille Nacht) museum on the other hand is dedicated to Franz Xaver Gruber, the composer of Stille Nacht.

A trip to Hallein is not complete without a long visit to the Hofbräu Kaltenhausen established in 1475. It is not only the oldest brewery in Salzburg, but is among the oldest in the German-speaking world and the oldest wheat-beer brewery in Austria. Hofbräu Kaltenhausen brewery, surrounded by the picturesque mountains, is dedicated to creating exquisite special styles, including the famous winter boch. It is a place where beer-lovers meet and savour their freshly-brewed beer along with authentic local fare like white sausages, schnitzels and pretzels.

Quick guide

By rail: Hallein can be reached by suburban railway from the city of Salzburg.
By road: One can also reach Hallein by driving 19 km on the A 10 which runs from Salzburg to Villach. Excellent, punctual bus service from 5.30 am to 11 pm  connects Hallein to Salzburg, Anif and the Hofbräu Kaltenhausen.



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(Published 19 September 2015, 16:33 IST)

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