JOIN USSanjukta Dutta is an Assamese fashion designer who takes her inspiration from the traditional Assamese garment, mekhela chador. An engineer-turned-designer, she works closely with Assamese artisans by supporting their immense creativity, delicate craftsmanship and deft handwork to make garments that celebrate Indianness.
She is now into designing traditional Assamese jewellery as well. She recently showcased her line of work at the Mysore Fashion Week - Season 2, in Mysuru. Excerpts from an interview:
What were the formative influences on you becoming a fashion designer? What was your inspiration?
Being from Assam, I always had a liking for mekhela chadors. Growing up, this liking turned only stronger, eventually leading me to turn a full-time fashion designer. Today, I can proudly say that with mekhela chadors as my biggest inspiration, I have set off to a really good start, but as the saying goes, I have miles and miles to go before I sleep.
How did you make the shift from engineering to designing?
I was designing clothes even a I was working full-time as an engineer. However, I couldn’t give my 100 per cent to designing. That’s when I realised that fashion designing was my true calling.
When you stepped into the world of designing, did you have any particular dreams? If so, have they been realised?
I started designing mekhela chadors in 2012 when I happened to meet Sandeep Jalan, the owner of a garment outlet, rather by chance, who persuaded me to design mekhela chadors and sell them at his outlet. It turned out to be a roaring success. My dream of keeping the tradition of mekhela chadors alive turned into reality and now I have been able to successfully make mekhela chadors popular in various parts of India. My dream now is to make them popular worldwide.
According to you, what about your designs appeal to people?
I’m of the belief that clothing is not just a piece of cloth but a key and integral part of every human being and their identity. It is my central belief that one’s clothing tells a story, of not just the kind of person you are, but also the mood you are in. My designs are a unique combination of clubbing traditions and prints of different geographies into one unique customised piece of garment, with the Assamese silk mekhela chadors in most cases being the base. I believe the beautiful motifs and the quality of silk I use for the sarees is what appeals to people.
Which is your favourite fabric, and what are your favourite colours?
I vouch for Assam silk, and colours like orange, yellow, red, black and blue.
What influences your designs the most?
As an artist, I love playing with colours and designs, and this has taken me to various parts of the country. From being influenced by the bandhej of Gujarat, leheria from Rajasthan, ari from Kashmir and modern digital prints, I have experimented with, twisted and evolved textures with my own touch, which are very much based on Assamese ethos and also blend well with contemporary tastes.
Many designers say there is a bit of themselves in their designs. Do you feel the same about your designs?
Absolutely! My work is a reflection of who I am on the inside and that flows in my designs naturally. My designs are a portrayal of my thoughts and ideas. Doing things with excellence is not about how skillful you are; it’s about how passionate you are.
What defines your designs the best?
The colours I use and the beautiful motifs I use.
You are involved in a project with the handloom weavers in Assam...
Every single mekhela chador designed is unique, customised and hand-crafted by a select bunch of specialised mekhela chador artisans who almost went extinct. The materials used are locally produced by tearing silkworms and getting cocoons, of a particular lineage of worms found only in a single village in Assam. In 2013, I set up two hand-crafted units in Guwahati itself, where I work closely with my weavers. We are one big family and I have ensured that my weavers get quality accommodation, food and even education for their kids close to the factory so that they don’t have to worry about anything and just focus on the pleasure of their art.
What about your jewellery line? How did that come about?
With sarees we all like to wear beautiful jewellery. And that got me to add a new dimension to my creativity. I started designing traditional Assamese jewellery that complement the clothes I design. At first, I tried to experiment with different shapes and sizes of some of the most popular Assamese traditional jewellery — Dug Dugi, Keru Moni, Junbiri etc. My experiments paid off and my designs were well- received by all.
Who, according to you, has the best sense of fashion?
Deepika Padukone, Rekha, Kiron Kher and Vidya Balan. I do hope to style them in mekhela chadors someday.
Favourite designer?
Masaba Gupta, whose work I admire.