JOIN US“What is the capital of Switzerland?” asks Nora, our guide for the day. I’m about to embark upon a walking tour of Bern, with a motley group of travellers from different countries. “Zurich,” says a bright-eyed American, while someone else says Geneva.
I mumble “Bern,” and Nora turns to me and says, “Right and wrong!” Technically, Switzerland has no capital, as the country is a confederation or a federal state. However, most of the government institutions are located in Bern, making it the de facto capital.
We are standing in front of one such institution — the imposing Bundeshaus (Swiss Parliament). The Bundesplatz in front of the building served as a parking lot for decades, but was later redesigned as a Platz als Platz (the plaza as a destination). It is today the site for weekly markets and events, and becomes an ice-skating rink in winter. When it’s not in use, an attractive water display comes to life — 26 jets of water, each representing a canton of Switzerland, burst up from the ground. We watch as a group of children jump about amongst the water jets, squealing with delight.
Old world charm
The southern side of the square is fenced in by a balustrade, which looks out over Bern’s lower city and the River Aare. The river forms a loop around the old city of Bern, perhaps the reason why Berchtold V, Duke of Zähringen, chose this place to found a city in 1191 — a place that would have a single point of entry and would be protected on three sides by the gushing river. According to legend, the Duke decided to name his city after the first animal he would hunt in the neighbouring woods. This turned out to be a bear, bär / bären (plural) in German, and hence the name Bern. A black bear with a red tongue and red claws adorns the coat of arms of the city, and bears have been kept at the Bärengraben (bear park) since the 16th century. Unfortunately, the garden was closed all summer for renovation, so I didn’t get a chance to see any live specimens.
A steep walkway descends from the parliament building towards the lower city and the river, and we meander along Aare in the sweltering heat. We arrive in the Mattequartier (Matte district), the erstwhile working class neighbourhood of old Bern. At one point it was known for its brothels, and even Casanova supposedly had a few dalliances here! The Matte people came up with their own secret language so that they could communicate without the police understanding them. Mattenenglisch was a sort of Pig Latin with complex rules of substituting the first vowel and moving around consonants. It was prevalent right up to the middle of the 20th century.
A series of stone or wooden staircases connect the Matte with the upper areas of Bern, and we huff and puff over a rather steep one to arrive at the Münsterplattform (Minster Terrace), once the cathedral cemetery and now a lovely park adjoining the Berner Münster (Bern Cathedral). The Gothic-style cathedral is the tallest in Switzerland, has the tallest bell tower and the largest bell in the country. For a small fee you can ascend the 344 steps to the spire for a stunning view, all the way across to the Bernese Alps.
The Old City of Bern is a UNESCO Cultural World Heritage Site and most of its layout and architecture has remained virtually unchanged since medieval times. The streets have arcade passages on either side, called lauben, which today house rows of shops. In 1405, many of Bern’s wooden buildings were destroyed in a fire. The city was rebuilt in sandstone and these arcades were added to create a long, covered walkway. The buildings also had vaulted cellars, where you can now find trendy bars, shops and theatres.
City of fountains
Every few minutes, bright red trams trundle along the street and we have to be careful crossing over to the middle to admire one of the many fountains in Bern. The ‘City of Fountains’ has more than 100 public water fountains, which were added in the 16th century to show off the wealth of the city, and to provide fresh drinking water to the citizens. Many of the fountains were topped with colourful allegorical figures and 11 of these fountains still stand — ostensibly preaching social and moral lessons.
The Kindlifresserbrunnen (Ogre Fountain) on Kornhausplatz shows a grotesque ogre gobbling children — Bernese parents have long used this fountain as a threat to discipline their misbehaving children! The Pfeiferbrunnen depicts a barefoot bagpiper, apparently suggesting his exclusion from society. There’s the Simsonbrunnen on Kramgasse, showing the biblical story of Samson slaying a lion with his bare hands, and the Schützenbrunnen or the Musketeer fountain on Marktgasse in front of the Zytglogge (Clock Tower).
We pause at No. 49, Kramgasse where Albert Einstein rented a second-floor flat from 1903 to 1905. This was an especially productive period for the great scientist, and it was in 1905 (his annus mirabilis) that he came up with the Theory of Relativity. The house is now an Einstein museum, and is restored to reflect the style of the period when he lived here.
At one end of Kramgasse stands the landmark 13th-century Clock Tower, which was the first western city gate. At various times in history, it served as a guard tower and a prison, and then in the 15th century a massive, ornate astronomical clock was built on it. It’s nearing 5 pm and we assemble in front of it to watch the hourly display of mechanical figures — a crowing rooster, a lion, parading bears, a knight, a piper, a dancing jester and a bearded Chronos, not to mention a gilded bell-striker who hammers on the bell to mark the hour. After the little performance, we follow Nora under the tower’s arch where she points out a series of metal rods mounted on the wall. “In the olden days, these were standard units of length, such as cubit and fathom, which people could use to make sure that they were not getting cheated in the cloth market,” she says.
After the tour, I head further down Marktgasse, to Bärenplatz, where a fruit, vegetable and flower market is held every day between April and October, and later in December. I wander around feasting my eyes on colourful bunches of lilies, roses and sunflowers, and on big wooden tubs full of summer fruits. I buy some sun-warmed apricots and nectarines to savour on my way back to my apartment in the Matte — no longer a working class neighbourhood; instead, it’s now filled with young families, couples and students, giving the area a youthful buzz.
Fact file
There are direct flights from Mumbai and Delhi to Zurich. Regular trains run from Zurich to Bern, reaching in just under an hour.
Accommodation varies from bed-and-breakfasts to luxury hotels. The Matte district is a good-value location. A short tram ride from the Matte (stop Nydegg) brings you to the city centre in less than 10 minutes, and to the train station in 15 minutes.
1 CHF is approximately Rs 67. The Euro is also widely accepted, though you will get change in Swiss francs.
Free Walking Tours: Bern offer a choice of three walks, which are conducted by a local and are gratis (tips are welcome). Details at http://www.freewalkingtoursbern.ch/