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Blue lagoons in Manapad

A rare seascape
Last Updated 21 November 2015, 18:34 IST

As I took an early morning stroll to the promontory of Manapad, I could see miles of spectacular stretches of sand, fishing boats docked amid tiny islets of the sea, and fishermen returning with their night’s catch. Some headed out into the sea in their little canoes and hurled their nets just as the waters began to glint in the morning light.

From the elevation, the view of the blue lagoon was breathtaking. Tucked south of Tuticorin in Tamil Nadu, the tiny fishing hamlet of Manapad, thankfully, is off the tourist radar and has a laid-back air. This could be one of the reasons why Mani Ratnam chose this picturesque beach as a backdrop for his movie, Kadal (Sea). Some of the scenes in Shoojit Sarkar’s Madras Café and the blockbuster movie, Singam, were also filmed here.

Religious significance

As I looked down from the elevation, I could see the shimmering turquoise sea under the orange rays of the sun. Manapad boasts of uninterrupted views of both sunrise and sunset on its waters, which seem to stretch endlessly. If you have experienced this visual treat, you’ll not head to Kanyakumari to witness the dramatic sunrise. Steeples and spires of a multitude of churches stand tall in the backdrop amid the brick-red roofs of the whitewashed houses. It is no wonder it has earned the sobriquet chinna (small) Jerusalem. Being in Manapad is pure bliss as the sacred churches and blessed waters exude a sublime aura to Manapad.

In 1540 a Portuguese ship, while sailing around the Cape of Good Hope, is believed to have been caught in a dreadful storm, which led to the splitting of its sails and snapping of its hind mast, leaving it at risk of collapsing. The captain who was devoted to the veneration of the Holy Cross, entrusted the safety of the vessel to Jesus Christ. He vowed to construct a Cross from a portion of the splintered mast if they escaped alive, and have it installed wherever they alighted safely. After drifting for several days, the ship washed up on the shores of Manapad. The captain had a Cross planted atop a hillock, reminiscent of the last journey of Christ on Mount Calvary.

Another popular story is about a traveller who cleansed his dirty foot on a nude log cut from the broken mast and immediately felt pain and swelling. He dreamt that he had defiled the log meant for a sacred purpose. Next morning, he cleaned the log with oil and applied the same oil on his foot and was immediately cured of his pain.

A small chapel was later built in order to venerate the Holy Cross. According to the locals, victims of cobra bite and leprosy have also been cured by touching the Cross, which stands tall on an elevated platform atop the hillock.

We set out on a leisurely walk to explore the small hamlet with its cluster of houses just wedged between the main road and seafront. As we sauntered around the hamlet, we noticed many of the cottages reminiscent of Chettinad. Several locals who used to work in Sri Lanka built for their families ancestral homes as palatial mansions with a well laid out garden on their return.

Church central

Our church-hopping spree started with the Church of the Holy Cross which is associated with St Francis Xavier, the missionary whose embalmed body is currently in Goa’s Basilica of Bom Jesus. It is believed that the saint came to Manapad in 1542 and lived in a dugout sandstone cavern on the seaward face of a cliff. This cave near the beach has a well, the water of which is considered to have healing powers, attracting hordes. Known as Valli’s Cave, it is said that a well inside provides sweet water.

A couple of years later, St Francis Xavier came to Manapad for missionary activity, on the coast, preaching the Gospel to the fisher folk. Hordes of tourists come here during the feast which is described as a thanksgiving for the recovery of the True Cross. It is publicly displayed from September 1 to 14. The church houses what is believed to be a fragment of the True Cross of Jerusalem.

St James Church, known as Peria Kovil (Big Church), was the next stop in our church-hopping spree. The main altar is made out of teak. Equally fascinating is the Holy Ghost Church, situated bang opposite St James Church. Though it was as enormous and opulent as St James’s Church, it was known as Chinna Kovil (meaning small church). One cannot afford to miss an engraving of ‘The Last Supper’ in marble chips and the marble altar.

Currently, Manapad is emerging as a great destination for all types of water sports like surfing and kite boarding. Manapad has a unique coastline that is formed by multiple layers of lava accumulated over hundreds of years. This gives Manapad the rare distinction of witnessing the best wave formation throughout the year.

Arun Miranda and his wife, Francina, an enterprising couple who run a heritage homestay here, are promoting Manapad as a surfing destination. “Manapad Point — with reported 400-metre-long waves and a reef bottom, has the potential for world class surfing. We also rent out surfing equipments and bring in trainers from Chennai for those who want to learn surfing. The world’s best surfing guide called ‘Magicseaweed.com’ lists Manapad as one of the best surfing sites globally,” says Miranda.

Fact File

Getting there
Manapad is 18 km from Tiruchendur. The nearest domestic airport is Tuticorin. Tuticorin and Tiruchendur are well connected by train and bus services to Chennai, Madurai and Tiruvananthapuram.

Best Time to visit

October to March

Activities

Water sports, heritage trail, etc

Where to shop

Shop for products made out of the leaves of the palmyra trees at the Manapad Palm Leaf Weavers Co-operative Society.



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(Published 21 November 2015, 16:43 IST)

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