Rare display of Hampi's glory

If you are in Hampi and have neither the time nor the energy to explore its scattered sites, head straight to the Archaeological Museum at Kamalapura, about five km away.

There, under one roof and a little beyond, the grandeur of the Vijayanagar Empire is comprehensively and compactly encapsulated. The Museum is not immense but is impressive and detailed. To start with, there are two scaled models of Hampi. The bigger of these, in a shady courtyard, portrays the geographical features of the region. Of greater interest to sightseers is the miniature replicas of the striking structures that adorn the local landscape. The smaller model is a more detailed depiction, focusing on the Royal Centre. This includes the Queen’s Bath, Lotus Mahal, Hazara Rama Temple and the elephant stables.

The domed chambers of the stables once housed the elephants of Krishnadevaraya, who ruled the region from 1509 to 1529. That mighty monarch’s name springs to mind at the mere mention of Hampi. Appropriately enough, effigies of him and his queens, Tirumala Devi and Chinnamma Devi, stand at the entrance of the Museum. The majestic trio, welcoming visitors with folded hands, lends a personal touch to the tour of the Museum.

Anyone, thus greeted, is likely to be keen on two aspects: clicking a selfie with Krishnadevaraya and knowing more about him. Photography is strictly forbidden but information about the emperor is readily available. Along the walls of the Museum are affixed accounts of his character and conduct as observed by foreign travellers, notably Domingo Paes of Portugal. We learn that the powerful ruler, though prone to fits of fury, was of a genial disposition, tolerant towards all faiths and was particular about maintaining his physical fitness. Domingo also describes the wonders of Krishnadevaraya’s court, and gives us an insight into his able administration.

The exhibits at the Museum include several figurines, implements, pieces of pottery and stones of cultural significance belonging to prehistoric times. Most of the coins, paintings, carvings, manuscripts and weaponry were in use at a later period, during Krishnadevaraya’s reign.

Another noticeable aspect of the Museum is the representation of Lord Shiva. It would take more than a couple of hours to appreciate this deity in various forms, ranging from the humble ‘Bhikshatana’ to the formidable ‘Bhairava’. These images, Vaishnava statues and idols of various gods and goddesses occupy not only large parts of the Museum but also its well-kept lawns. As one strolls through the Museum, one cannot help but pause to recall the remarkable role played by our former colonial masters in collecting and collating antiques. It began with Colonel Colin Mackenzie of East India Company, who was knowledgeable about Eastern religions, discovering the ruins of Hampi in 1800.

Later, the British officers who were stationed in the area safely placed the objects, which emerged from successive excavations, in the aforementioned elephant stables.
No wonder that, more than 40 years ago, the royal stables, albeit ‘elephantine’, could not cope with the influx of fascinating relics that were being regularly unearthed at Hampi. In 1972, the Archaeological Survey of India moved the assortment of artefacts to a  new building. Here, Hampi’s enthralling history — our proud heritage — is triumphantly showcased. While there is nothing like seeing the splendours of Hampi first-hand, the Archaeological Museum is a worthy second best!