JOIN US'Indian food is more than red & yellow'
For someone who wanted to be an army officer as a kid, becoming a chef seems like a dramatic shift of tastes. But Chef Gautam Mehrishi tells us how his ‘culinary childhood’, when he spent most of his summer vacation in the contrasting kitchens of both his grandmothers (one was completely satvik and another typically Punjabi), led him on the tasteful journey of food.
The fact that his entire family loves to cook (his dad being good at pickling and sweet making) also adds to his love for cooking. Armed with a cooking degree from Bhopal, this chef has traversed the length and breadth of the country, serving in a variety of kitchens of the Taj, Intercontinental, Marriott, Claridges and Sun N Sand Groups (where he is currently serving as the corporate chef). In a chat with Deccan Herald, the popular television show host and biryani lover talks about international cuisines, Indian spices and more. Excerpts:
The evolution of food...
Food is still being cooked on fire, as it was a thousand years ago. But the mediums have changed. Also, today, there’s more emphasis on the presentation. Over time, the cooking techniques and amalgamation of ingredients has evolved. Scientific methods have flooded the food scenario. Earlier, we had never heard of vegetables like broccoli or kale, but now you can find them in your local supermarkets. Thanks to lifestyle changes, evolving tastes and globalisation, food is taking on a new meaning today.
Has Indian cuisine made its mark globally?
There’s still a long way to go. For the last two decades, the general
impression about Indian food has been only gravies, curries and tandoor-cooked dishes. But Indian food is also very sophisticated, technical, diverse, and has many varieties. Sadly, most Indian food looks red and yellow abroad. This isn’t real Indian food. In order to change the perceptions, Indian food has to be showcased in a different manner. One day, we probably will see packaged Indian food going to the outer space.
Myths and facts about Indian food…
Usually, the spiciness in Indian food is attributed to chilli. But the whole gamut of spices isn’t only about the heat. The sheer diversity of Indian spices range from sweet to salty to pungent. For instance, cinnamon and cardamom are used to flavour sweet dishes. This variety hasn’t been promoted properly, which is why such misconceptions exist.
Indian culinary shows on TV...
People desire something different in their daily meals, and it isn’t possible to go to a restaurant everyday. While the dish may look complicated, food shows present them in a simplified manner. Also, the fact that innumerable international culinary shows are grabbing eyeballs puts pressure on us to create something similar. It helps that we know
Indian spices and ingredients the best, which makes it easier for people to connect with us.
Favourite ingredients and kitchen gadgets...
I love grains like amaranth, quinoa, and spices like pepper and clove. Of course, I
cannot forget desi ghee and yogurt. I love the sous vide technique. Currently, I am
obsessed with my immersion circulator. And I love knives and keep hoarding them on my travels. My kitchen has about 400-500 of them today.
What are the food trends to watch out for?
This year will witness a lot of healthy and European influences. And by Europe, I don’t mean Italy or France. We will see a lot of Turkish and Scandanavian influences. Korean influences and modern Thai food will tingle our taste buds. In fact, a beautiful amalgamation of Asian and Spanish food can also be expected. You can also expect things like oysters in miso or chilli garlic oil. And, mushrooms will dominate the industry in a big way.
Online food portals have simplified cooking with half-assembled meal packs...
You lose the fun in this process. It’s like somebody has given you jumbled answers and all you have to do is to place them in the right order. What’s the fun if you can’t write your own answer? The difference is in the freedom. Many consider cooking to be an antidepressant and therapeutic. But this trend robs you of all the pleasure.
Learning from other cuisines...
There are lots of lessons to learn in terms of how they use their ingredients, the temperatures they use, and the way they cook. Something as simple as when they put in their salt is also very educational. If not anything, we can learn a lot from their basics.
How they treat what is very important. For instance, we only knew of chocolate in terms of sweetness. But places like Mexico use chocolate sauces as meat accompaniments. Similarly, pasta is differently treated in Italy when compared with Spain. Also, the way we treat meat is very different from others. We never eat raw meat but Europe does use raw minces. We believe cooking fish for a lot of time brings out its true flavours. But the reality is that you can flash cook it too. Similarly, the way international cuisines flavour at different temperatures is also important.
On healthy eating...
One of the best things to do would be to consume seasonal food. Also, eating one meal without salt and sugar would greatly benefit our body. Another thing to understand here is that every food element is healthy; it’s the eating habits that aren’t. Know the difference between the urge to indulge and actual hunger. Follow the principle of ‘Eat breakfast like a king, lunch like a prince and dinner like a pauper’ everyday. If you do feel hungry in the night, resort to nuts, fruits, lemon water or milk with oats as they are light on the stomach.
Kitchen gardening tips...
The easiest things to grow would be creepers and herbs like basil, oregano, rosemary, thyme and lemon grass. If you have the luxury of space, you can also grow chillies and vegetables like bitter gourd.