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Pleasures of Picton

seaside town
Last Updated 18 June 2016, 18:43 IST

Barrelling along a straight, smooth motorway flanked by rolling meadows on either side, I catch glimpses of sheep, cows and deer grazing lazily in the idyllic setting. Apple orchards with trees laden with fruits are a visual treat.

The nip in the air adds that much-needed fun quotient to my exciting journey. On my way, I stop several times to drink in the beauty of the picturesque surroundings, and to click pictures. I’m on my way to Picton, the scenic seaside town in the Marlborough Region of New Zealand’s South Island.

Pretty Picton announces itself with its wide array of street side cafés, restaurants, souvenir shops and stylish art galleries that offer an unimpeded view of the seafront. I’m here during Easter holidays, so I see people with their near and dear ones enjoying a leisurely brunch. Sipping on Karma Cola, the organic cola produced in New Zealand, taking measured bites of kingfish, the speciality of the day at Le Café, a contemporary continental dining place, I enjoy the ambience of the charming seaside town even as a live band plays in the background. It’s almost dreamlike.

It’s time for me to check in to a cruise that’ll take me to the Bay of Many Coves, a luxury resort situated deep in Marlborough Sounds.

Poetry in nature

The journey by sea is in itself is a memorable experience. As the cruise makes its way tearing the deep blue waters of the sea, marine birds of all hues, shapes and sizes make an appearance. White-fronted tara, variable oystercatcher, shags and gulls of various kinds, Australasian gannet, fluttering shearwater, albatross, and seals, too, happily sunning themselves on the rocks, unmindful of the attention they are garnering. Or, do you think it’s their way of daring the world? Probably. Peering into a pair of binoculars, I can’t stop exclaiming.

At this point in time, little do I know that this is just the beginning of many such ‘wow’ moments. Nestled in the lap of pristine nature, flanked by mountains and the water front, Bay of Many Coves leaves me smitten. The view from each of the rooms, the adventure activities on offer, the calming tranquillity… The experience is mesmerising, to say the least. The glow worm experience here is breathtaking, I hear. Unfortunately, the evening is not moist enough for glow worms to put up a show for me. I miss the spectacle. The delectable spread on the dinner table, complemented with classic wines, and the hospitality of the hosts, leaves me floored. I drift into a peaceful slumber.

Waking up to the chirping of birds and the rumble of waves, I am all set to embark on my Paua Pearl Farm tour. Cruising through Queen Charlotte Sound, a myriad of waterways and tranquil bays, I reach Whekenui Bay on Arapawa Island. Stepping on the island, I wonder if the experience is for real. Blue waters on one side, green hills on another, a picture-postcardish house at a distance with horses galloping in the background, pear trees laden with ripe fruits along the way, cherubic kids playing hide and seek…

Am at Arapawa Seafarms, where the unique blue abalone pearls or paua pearls are grown. Way back in 2001, US citizens Mike and Antonia Radon fell in love with the place and decided to make Arapawa Islands their home. Today, their labour of love, the seafarm, relates the story of paua pearls, considered the most lustrous and one of the rarest cultured pearls in the world. The couple, along with their children who are home-schooled, give us a tour of the pearl farm and treat us to some homemade goodies and coffee. My favourite is the pear tart. They also load me with fresh, juicy pears, a paua shell, and lots of good memories as takeaway presents. I love them all.

Back at Picton, I’m now able to appreciate paua pearl and shell jewellery in the rows of shops lining the pretty port town. After all, each pearl takes 2-3 years to grow, with only 5-10 pearls out of 50 making it to shops nationwide. I quickly pick them up as souvenirs. Expensive, but worth every penny.

The excitement never seems to end. I soon find myself kayaking in the crystal-clear waters of Pelorus River, taking in the beauty of the pristine native forest in all its glory. Renowned for river swimming and river rafting, Pelorus River is a quaint riverside location offering a range of adventure activities, including the bush walk to a nearby bat reserve. To add to my sense of wonder, I am told it is exactly the spot where the barrel scene from The Hobbit: The Desolation of Smaug, where the dwarves are seen floating in barrels down the river, was shot.

Peter Jackson, the director, writer and producer of The Lord of the Rings trilogy and The Hobbit trilogy, loved visiting Pelorus River as a child and didn’t think beyond the river when it came to choosing an ideal spot to shoot the famous barrel fight scene. Am sure he wouldn’t have found a better spot, even if he had wanted to. The setting is such. I look around, sincerely wishing I could pitch a tent in the forests around and live here, all by myself, savouring the beauty of the place, engaging in silent conversations with nature. The wish seems overwhelmingly worthwhile.

FACT FILE

Getting there

 The drive from Nelson to Picton is roughly 90 minutes by road; Pelorus River is about a 50-minute drive from Picton

Must-do

Water taxi rides that offer a scenic view of the picturesque surroundings, and of sea birds and animals, plus an unforgettable experience

Must-buy

Jewellery made of paua pearls & shells
Maori masks

Must-visit

Brancott Estate Heritage Centre overlooking the site where the first ever Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc grapes were planted

Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre that relates the story of aviation in World War


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(Published 18 June 2016, 16:27 IST)

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