A valley of wonders

Much before a part of it got the prestigious World-Heritage tag, this mesmerising valley of gurgling crystal waters, apple orchards, sleepy hamlets, psychedelic birds, trout fish and adventurous treks, invited me to witness its mind-clearing calm.

Tirthan Valley is the land of a pristine river, a pond with an intriguing fable; of clan deities and beautiful architecture. It’s dotted with tiny villages where womenfolk laboriously weave their own gorgeous woollen wrap-around skirts. Butterflies and flowers are bountiful here, and peace so near at hand that one need not strain to hear bees humming or birds chirping.

Heart of tranquility

One April evening, after rigorous five years of no-break work life in listless Delhi, I finally decided to take a road trip to the Himalayas. I boarded the bus from Delhi at around 5 pm, and just when the eastern sky was beginning to brighten in the morning chill, the bus halted at the nondescript Aut on Manali highway.

From there, my cottage-resort was two hours away at a height of about 6,000 feet. In that tranquil morning hour — my surroundings looked remote, rustic and dreamy. I assembled many unforgettable memories — snow, fresh garlic shoots and mint ready to be plucked, apple flowers in full bloom, lady birds, wooden-stone houses, exotic flowers, festive procession, and the river!

On the first day, I trekked for three hours to reach Banjar, home to the curiously-built Chaini Kothi at 7,000 feet. Built by King Rana Dhadhia around 1,500 years ago, Kothi’s complex has a courtyard, storehouse, temple, and a 45-metre tall tower. The structure also features beams made of deodar wood. In the middle of tall mountains and single-storey village homes, this man-made wonder stands out. Its steep and narrow steps, made of a single tree trunk, need a special mention. The stairs are constructed in 70 degrees angle, making them difficult to climb.

Bang in the middle of the village, I chanced upon the local deity’s temple. The idol was sitting in a window-size wooden shrine, upon a well-like round wall. After a short prayer, I headed back to the resort.

I sat on the water’s edge on the round and smooth rocks, letting my feet feel the river. The freezing waters belong to Tirthan, after which this valley is named. I crossed the river sitting in a tiny metal box that was pushed and pulled manually from both ends.

Most people visit Tirthan seeking adventure or leisurely decadence. While in a village, I saw a woman weaving. I tried striking a conversation with her out of curiosity. In many villages of Tirthan, some extremely talented weavers keep their weaving traditions alive. They continue to spin yarn on a spindle. Every other house has a loom on which they weave shawls, and their traditional attires called pattoo, with sheep wool.

Next I headed to Jalori Pass. This unlevelled terrain does not make for an easy trek. The narrow pathways and loose earth at some places were dangerous to walk on. Jalori Pass is at 10,800 feet, and connects Kullu Valley with Shimla. My four-hour trek culminated at a fenced pond called Sareul. According to local legends, goddess of ghee called Buddhi Nagin protects this pond and appears sometimes in the form of a bird.

Just as I was waiting for my return bus at Aut, the sounds of local folk music filled the air. I was lucky enough to witness the procession of a local deity. An elaborate idol, made of heavy solid silver, was covered with garlands. With this beautiful parting sight, I am hopeful of returning to this magical valley.

Fact file

How to reach:

Road: There are several volvo buses that ply to Aut. Taxi services can be hired from there.
Train: There are train services up to Chandigarh, from where taxis can be hired up to Tirthan.
Air: There are flights to Kullu from Delhi. Taxis can be hired from there.
Accommodation:
There are several guesthouses, homestays, eco resorts and camps in Tirthan.