JOIN USThat Odisha is famous for sarees is a well-known fact. The Sambalpuri and Vichitrapuri sarees from the land of Lord Jagannath are much sought-after. During my recent visit to Odisha, I was introduced to yet another mind-boggling variety of weaves known as bomkai. Highly attractive with beautiful designs and bright colours, these sarees immediately caught my attention, and piqued my curiosity to know more about them.
Also known as Sonepuri sarees, bomkais were first woven in the southern coastal parts of Odisha. Though almost all the coastal towns of Odisha are into the weaving of bomkai sarees, it is in Sonepur, located in the western part of Odisha, that these sarees are crafted in their prettiest designs. A fine blend of ikat and embroidery woven into each other, bomkais are available in both cotton and silk.
Woven with a low count of cotton yarn, bomkais are crafted using both the weft and warp techniques. According to Utkal Behera, who specialises in the trading of bomkai sarees, “The earliest bomkais were woven using a technique known jaala. Though it has been a part of our state’s culture since the 600 BC, the present day bomkai sarees are a result of many innovations.”
However, in some parts of Odisha, bomkais are still woven in the traditional jaala technique to retain the original flavour of the craft. Speaking of innovations, one major innovation bomkai has seen is the introduction of zari thread work in its weaving.
Named after Bomkai village in the Ganjam district of Odisha, bomkai weaving industry has created many jobs in the state. In fact, it is the major occupation of the people of Chikiti in Odisha.
Bomkai sarees are unique in the sense that their colours are bright, with the border and the blouse in contrasting hues. The pallu designs are also heavy.
The bomkai design, locally known as bandha, is special. The motifs used are also varied. While the border’s motifs range from tribal art, temple spire patterns to floral patterns and rudrakasha beads, the designs on pallus range from bitter gourd, fish, lotus to tortoise and birds.
Considered auspicious, the brahmins of the southern part of Odisha wear only bomkai sarees on religious occasions. And, of course, it is the preferred saree of odissi dancers around the world. Also popular with the celebrities, a bomkai saree called Radhakunja, designed by Chaturbhuj Meher at Sonepur, was worn by actor Aishwarya Rai Bachchan for her wedding.
So the next time you visit Odisha, you know what to buy…