Good old Philly!

A glimpse of history

The city which shared its title with a famous Hollywood film, was once the First City of the United States of America and is still one of its most important metropolises.

Obama has come and gone and we Indians still know little about American democratic history. It all began in Philadelphia, where the Founding Fathers met and signed the declaration of Independence from Britain in 1776, and also wrote the American Constitution in 1787. Philadelphia was one of the nation’s capitals during the American Revolution and later substituted for the new capital, Washington, which was under construction. 

With the American penchant for personalising objects and places by giving them nicknames, Philadelphia came to be known as ‘Philly’, which trivialised its contribution to American history.

The best way to see the city is to take a hop-on-hop-off bus tour, which takes you to all the significant spots. And the best part is one can use the same ticket the next day too. The city’s history plays out in every nook and corner. Its beauty lies in its mixed architecture — 17th century buildings vie with modern, glass and chrome ones. 

Past glory

The city was founded in 1682 by a British real estate entrepreneur called William Penn, through a royal charter granted by the British king, Charles II. It was made the capital of the British colony of Pennsylvania, also founded by Penn. As with most cities in the US and Canada, Philadelphia was acquired from Native Americans through a treaty. Benjamin Franklin, a famous polymath and a prominent citizen, also known as ‘the First American’, improved the city’s services and founded new ones.

During the 19th century, Philadelphia became America’s major industrial hub, which attracted European and African refugees escaping persecution back home. The Africans were erstwhile slaves in the South, who moved from bonded labour to freedom. Today, 44% of Philadelphia’s population is African-American.

The city bristles with historical sites that relate to the founding of the US. But you have to start at the beginning, and so my first halt was at the Independence National Historical Park at City Centre, which houses the Georgian-style Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell, that is considered a symbol of American independence.

The Independence Hall was carefully remodelled after the original one disintegrated. The copy is as good, with its court rooms, where American revolutionaries were tried for treason by the British and where, after Independence, traitors against the cause were sentenced by the revolutionaries who came to power. The damaged Liberty Bell is protected in a large glass case. The story goes that it rang at historical moments, including at the dawn of independence.

My next stop was the Old City, with its Christ Church and stunning Baroque-style City Hall, with the statue of William Penn in his trademark hat, at its crest. A few streets away were the homes of writer Edgar Allen Poe and the patriotic seamstress Betsy Ross, who designed the first American flag. 

The tour took me through other streets with historical buildings like the first and second banks of the US, the US Mint, Fort Mifflin, an 18th century military base that is still in use and the fortress-like Eastern State Penitentiary, which imprisoned some of America’s most notorious criminals.

Museum musings

I also cruised past the Benjamin Franklin National Memorial and the Philadelphia Museum of Art, both of which were closed as it was a Sunday. But I did pant up the Art Museum’s numerous front steps known as the ‘Rocky’ steps where Sylvester Stallone, playing Rocky Balboa in the famous series, ran up for a scene. The area is now one of the most famous movie locations in the world.

The top step gave me a fabulous view of the aesthetically designed Benjamin Franklin Parkway and the Philadelphia skyline. While coming down, I posed next to Stallone’s statue as Rocky Balboa, which was gifted by the star to the city, after the completion of the film. Philadelphia is also home to the US’s first zoo and hospital, as well as Fairmount Park, one of America’s oldest and largest landscaped urban parks.

At dusk I visited its row houses, the first to be developed in the country. One of them, Elfreth’s Alley, is the oldest residential area, dating back to 1702, and one of the most expensive. The cobbled street is studded with quaint cellars, with trap-door like entrances. I opened one to peek inside, but the dark interior reminded me of Jack The Ripper skulking around for his next female victim, so I quickly shut it and hurried out of the alley!

Returning downtown, the bus took me past the PSFS Building, America’s first sky scraper, built in 1932; One Liberty Place, with its glass and granite buildings and the current landmark, the Comcast Centre, Philadelphia’s tallest building. The Centre is a 58-storied glass and chrome structure housing a cable company, with a 2,000 square-feet high-definition LED screen in its lobby, that is a tourist attraction.

‘Philly’ is also one of America’s most artistic cities and has a profusion of art galleries with cultural events occurring annually. It has a vibrant night life too. The Avenue of the Arts in Centre City is bursting with restaurants and theatres, including the Walnut Street Theatre, one of America’s oldest and largest.

Talking about culture, public art flourishes in Philadelphia. The city, which has funded almost 3,000 murals, has more outdoor sculptures and murals than any other American city. The city has also played a major role in the growth of American soul, rock, rap and hip hop. Many internationally known musicians are its residents.

Fact file

The hop-on-hop-off bus tour has 27 stops and starts at Independence Visitor Centre, at the North East corner of 5th and market streets.

You can travel for more than a day on the same ticket, which costs $32 for two days and $53 for three days. Child rates are $10 and $25 respectively.

Must eat:

Don’t forget to try Philly’s famed cheesesteak and soft pretzels, a staple in the city’s cuisine, shaped by its ethnic mix.