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The pillion views

Last Updated 15 October 2016, 18:34 IST
It’s a lie. The highest motorable road in the world. At 18,380 feet above sea level, the Khardung La Pass may be the highest, but ‘motorable’ road? For me, it’s etched in memory as those never-ending patches of rough, non-tarred, stone-strewn ‘roads’ that only got worse with every turn. I doubt I’ve ever cursed so much in my entire life.

In retrospect, though, I must confess that Khardung La wasn’t the most arduous leg of our motorcycle tour of Ladakh. Just three days ago, we were on our way from Leh to Chang La Pass, and it was quite a challenge to stay put on the bike. As though the steep ascents and descents with the stream crossings weren’t brutal enough, we had to encounter harsh hail, too! Unlike snowfall, there’s nothing romantic about hail; it’s like the heavens are pelting shards of ice upon you. But as I put on the rainwear (my fourth layer of clothing) with wobbly fingers, I remember feeling rather excited about the adventure. After all, why else does one choose to explore Ladakh — also known as the land of high passes — on a motorcycle?

The time is right
When you want something, as Paulo Coelho so eloquently put it, all the universe conspires in helping you to achieve it. Ladakh had been on my wish list for a long time. But somehow things never quite worked out. So, last month, even as the bags were getting packed, I was afraid something would go wrong. And it did! The Srinagar unrest showed no signs of abating; the only way to go ahead with the travel plan was to drop Srinagar and fly to Leh. Or else, wait for another year, as the best time to visit the place is between June and September. Thankfully, the tour operator we had booked with, managed to salvage the situation and after some tweaking, the Leh to Manali itinerary was ready.

Even before we landed at the Kushok Bakula Rimpochhe Airport in Leh (one of the highest commercial airports in the world at 10,682 feet above sea level), I was awe-struck. The mighty mountains, cotton-candy-like clouds, bluest of skies... my home for a fortnight! It took the collective applause of my co-passengers as the aircraft’s wheels touched the ground to get me out of my reverie.

Once we got to the hotel, the mandate was clear. Rest well and get acclimatised to the high altitude. For, altitude sickness (also known as acute mountain sickness) has ruined many a travel plans. The key is to keep your body well hydrated and give it adequate time to get adjusted to the lower oxygen levels and decreased air pressure. Give alcoholic beverages a miss and indulge in some delightful ginger-lemon-honey tea instead.

But keeping the bikers away from their motorcycles is no mean task. By the next day, all 16 riders, plus five pillions, were eager to take their rented Royal Enfield Bullet 500 for a spin. And so, off we rode to the mountains for some orientation on group-riding techniques, safety precautions and off-road motorcycle riding. We were riding through the Himalayas!

Over the next 10 days, we rode through countless exquisite Buddhist monasteries, spectacular valleys, lovely lakes, and over a dozen passes — Fatu La, Namika La, Chang La, Taglang La, Lachung La, Naki La, Baralacha La (‘La’, in Tibetan, means pass). As a pillion, I had the luxury to let my eyes wander, soak in the natural beauty all around. Oh, the mountains offer such a stunning canvas for the light and shadow show of the Sun. But every once in a while, the road would demand undivided attention. On our ride to Kargil, for instance, we were constantly on the lookout for falling rocks from the hillside. And enroute to Rohtang Pass, there was no way we could take our eyes off the rough roads; the landside-induced slush made it a bit too adventurous for comfort. 

The stream crossings were a lesson in patience and positive thinking. On our way to Pangong Tso, I was certain we were headed for our maiden fall — that too, at a stream crossing. But we survived! The trick, we learnt, was to keep going, maybe at a slower pace, until you can see the ground clearly.

You think the city traffic is annoying? Wait until you are stuck behind a herd of mountain goats on a narrow road. They just don’t move! Luckily, on our ride from Sarchu to Jispa, we had the happy realisation that the Bullet’s engine sound could actually jolt those smelly creatures into making some way.

Yin & yang effect
While most people were busy posing with the yellow scooter of the 3 Idiots fame, I was more than happy to sit by my cottage window with a breathtaking view of Pangong Tso; it was like watching a mesmerising watercolour painting come to life.

Ladakh grows on you and before you even realise it, the place has made a home in your heart. As much as I enjoyed ticking off all those must-do items from my Ladakh list, the memories I cherish the most are of those seemingly simple moments that made me feel alive and at peace with the present.

It’s among those very few touristy places that actually delivers more than it promises. Riding through the Nubra Valley was every bit as scenic as the numerous travel portals had assured, but plucking fragrant apricots and juicy peaches from our hotel garden in Hunder was something else.

At Sumoor, it was those sunflower plants outside our rooms — such a bright, happy sight to behold! The best surprise was at Sarchu, though. We were staying in tents and it was freezing, despite the thermals and jackets. But one peek outside and we knew how blessed we were to have those colossal mountains for walls and the starless sky as our roof. And you don’t really have to be a rider or a believer to experience either. However, you got to have an experimental streak in you to try the local cuisine. Thukpa (soupy noodles), Tsampa (roasted barley flour), yak cheese, Gur-gur chai (salted tea with butter) and Chang (the local beer) are among the most popular picks. For those with meeker digestive systems, there’s no dearth of Maggi. It’s a good idea to carry enough dry fruits and chocolates to deal with hunger pangs while on the road.

What a pity you can’t carry a portable loo! Because you are at the mercy of random restaurants with ‘flush toilets’. It doesn’t make it any easier that dehydration can cause serious problems at high altitudes. So, ladies, it’s a classic ‘between the devil and the deep blue sea’ conundrum. For some much-needed distraction during such testing times, do lookout for the Border Roads Organisation (BRO) signboards: Be gentle on my curves; I like you too, darling. But not so fast.

Altitude, they say, alters attitude. Perhaps, that can explain my foul mood at Khardung La. That morning, we were forced to wait at North Pullu (16,000 feet above sea level) for six hours because, as luck would have it, we were there on Independence Day and a union cabinet minister had chosen to hoist the flag on ‘the highest motorable road in the world’.

Looking back, my Ladakh trip had all the makings of a blockbuster movie — it made me laugh with unbridled joy, yelp in anguish, sing out loud, tear my hair out... and fall in love. Juley!
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(Published 15 October 2016, 15:33 IST)

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