Celebration of stone architecture

Setting off to Hangal in Haveri district is a wonderful way to explore the lesser-known jewels of temple architecture. Driving through a beautiful countryside, I first reached the 12th century Tarakeshwara Temple. A beautiful large wooden chariot outside the temple welcomes you to this place. You will see a small Ganesha shrine with a Nagara style spire at the entrance of the temple. The plan of this temple reflects a good example of the Kalyani Chalukya’s architectural style and has a garbhagriha, antarala, navaranga, sabhamantapa and a mukhamantapa. The main sanctum sanctorum has a Shivalinga called Tarakeshwara along with the sculptures of Vishnu, Brahma, Kartikeya and Nandi. 

The exterior wall of the temple has bas-relief sculptures from the Ramayana. The carved images of the dvarapalakas, though incomplete, are attractive. Special mention must be made of the Kadamba Nagara Shikara above the sanctum that has intricately carved motifs, including a sculpture of a hero fighting a lion, which  resembles the Hoysala emblem. 

Murals and etchings on the walls are in a bad shape now and have almost disappeared. However, what is remaining reflects the artist’s expertise. Likewise, the ceilings of the temple are done up in an ornate manner and you must not miss the lovely floral patterns on them. 

Every pillar is different and has intricate carvings with floral and animal motifs as well as carvings of deities. The decorated pillars, a typical Chalukyan feature, also has Dravidian and Nagara influences that add a distinct character to this temple. The large eight-pillared hall with a lotus-type ceiling, and the main central hall that has a concentric-domed ceiling with a rosette pendant are key distinguishing aspects of this temple. 

You will need to spend some time here as each sculpture and etching is nothing short of an architectural marvel and a celebration of stone architecture.

Billeshwara TempleContinuing my exploration of the old temples in Hangal, I reached Billeshwara Temple located opposite to Anekere Lake on the Hangal-Bankapur highway. The temple is situated on a slight elevation off the ground and is a solitary structure that seems incomplete. You will not find any shikhara or sabhamantapa here and it seems as if it was abandoned for some reason. 

This is a smaller structure and has only a garbhagriha which houses a large Shivalinga that seems to be of an early origin. The ceiling of the garbhagriha is decorated with lotus medallions. The highly ornate door frame of the garbhagriha is divided into five sakhas. A seven-stage doorway with each stages having a theme of its own adorns the garbhagriha. 

Said to date back to 11 or 12th century, the exterior of the temple is decorated with exquisitely carved miniature shikaras over pilasters. There is a beautiful moon stone in front of the temple. I was quite fascinated to see the carvings of the serpents with human heads, lions, animals and birds intertwined with foliage here. The temple has fine specimens of the architecture of the period. 

Both the temples help us visit the past and offer a sneak peek into a period, one which was culturally rich and has historical importance.