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A journey rich in stories

regal structures
Last Updated 05 December 2016, 18:41 IST

In the interiors of Gundlupet taluk in Chamarajanagar district, one can visit many places of interest including temples — those with historical background, those associated with the Wadiyars and those known for their scenic surroundings — and villages that still
retain the old-world charm. On one such trip recently, I was able to see some of them.

The first place I visited was Terakanambi, a town whose history dates back to the sixth century. Here, Moolasthaneswara Temple is perhaps the earliest one that has been built in the Hoysala style. The main temple is the Lakshmi Varadarajaswamy and is built in the Dravidian-style. It has some well executed granite pillars that feature some intricate relief carvings. The original carvings have been said to have been taken to the Prasanna
Krishnaswamy Temple in Mysuru by Krishnaraja Wadiyar III and it has been replaced by metallic images.

Terakanambi, about 19 km from Gundlupet, was the secondary capital of Ummathur chiefs. Literary figures such as  Chikkupadhyaya, the famous court poet at Chikkadevaraja Wadiyar, the Maharaja of Mysore, belonged to Terakanambi. Our next destination was Huligina Muradi, which is about seven km from Therakanambi. Here, on top of an enchanting hillock, is the Prasanna Venkataramanaswamy Temple. Built in 1629 AD, the temple is designed in the Vijayanagar style. The temple has three cells in a row, with Padmavathi on the left and a metallic utsava murthi on the right. A panoramic view of the countryside from atop the hill, which is also called Vyaghrachala, is worth a look. We then moved on to Parvathi Betta. It is about 10 km away from Gundlupet. It is believed that this is where Shanumkha performed penance after killing demon Tarakasura. Atop the rocky hillock is a temple dedicated to Someshwara and
Parvathi, in whose honour the hillock bears the name.

Vijayanagar style
We next went to Triyambakeshwara Temple in Thriyambakapuri, which is about 2.5 km from Terakanambi. This temple, believed to have been built between 1250 and 1350 AD, is a classic example of Vijayanagar style of architecture. The main deityTriyambakeshwara is in the form of a linga. It is assigned to Bukka Raya II, a Vijayanagar king from the Sangama Dynasty. The mahadwara (main entrance) is similar to entrances built during the Vijayanagar period. The 12.2-metre deepasthamba, opposite the main entrance, is the main attraction. There is a similar structure on the south. The temple consists of an ardha mantapa and a garbha griha, built by the Hoysalas.

The dance poses on the thick granite pillars in the spacious front Navaranga pavilion are worth a study. Triyambakeshwara’s consort Parvathi’s shrine is located adjacent to the main temple. The reflected sunlight, where Nandi faces Triyambakeshwara, brightens up the sanctum sanctorum.

The right eye of Goddess Durgadevi in the adjacent small temple in the complex shines somewhat brightly. This and the temple has a unique story behind it. When a local resident visited this area a few years ago, he came across the temple. Although the area was covered by weeds and plants, he managed to get near the temple. To his astonishment, he found tears coming from the right eye of Goddess Durgadevi. With some help from local residents, he was able clean the area and soon, worship resumed.

Of smaller temples
We then visited Kabballi and Kallahalli, two adjacent villages. The former is 12 km from Gundlupet while the latter is three km from Kabballi. Kabbigarahalli has become a part of Kabballi today. There are some small temples with poorly-lit sanctum sanctora.

At Hanchipura village, near Kallahalli,  is an image of Anjaneya with Abhaya Hastha. The image — attributed to be one of the 750 images erected by Vysaraja, the Rajaguru of Vijayanagara rulers, in 1510 AD — is said to be the tallest in this area. The temple priest points to two memorial stones standing at Kabballi and narrates the story behind it. A tiger was frequently attacking the village and the residents could not kill it. Then the king himself went to end the troubles caused by the tiger and, both died. Hence, the memorial stone was installed.

Our next destination was the popular Himavad Gopalaswamy Hills in the Western Ghats range. The temple falls within the jurisdiction of Biligiriranganatha Swamy Temple Wildlife Sanctuary, a tiger reserve. A visitor gets a beautiful valley view from atop. Only KSRTC buses take the visitors to the temple up the hills as private vehicles are banned. Biligirirangana Hills is about 16 km from Gundlupet. As thick fog surrounds the hill, it has derived the name ‘Himavad’. The hill had fortifications all around and was called Bettada Kote, the chiefs of which were associated with the Mysore royal family since long, a tradition which has been continued even today.

The last place we visited was the historical town of Kalale, five km off Nanjangud. It was once the capital of the Kalale chiefs, who were associated with the Mysore
Maharajas. A Dravidian structure, Lakshmikanthaswamy Temple here has a
beautiful image of the presiding deity. In the prakara are images of other deities and Alwars. A beautiful mantapa stands outside the temple.

As the trip came to end, the taluk’s rich history and architecture made the whole journey fulfilling and enjoyable.

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(Published 05 December 2016, 17:43 IST)

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