JOIN USWhile the sari itself has evolved over time, the blouse too has been on a journey of its own. This humble piece of garment has evolved into a versatile piece of fabric that finds favour as a snug fit with more garments than just the sari. From the modest ‘bust band’ a la Shakuntala, to snappier versions a la Madhuri Dixit to ramp-scorchers in bikini tops and peplum cuts, the blouse has arrived on the Indian fashion scenario. You can now find them in a multitude of snappy cuts and flattering curves in the form of mini capes, bralets, off-shoulder styles and polo neck designs.
In a marked departure from the traditional cuts, the blouse has experienced a swift, stylish overhaul, moving past the bustier choli brigade to stringy blouses, bralets, capes and ones with cutaway sleeves. Today, the blouse is even being teamed with skirts, dhoti pants and jeans.
Fashion designer Manish Arora’s recent creations in blouses sassed up the better-half of the sari with tiny adorable hearts. “These blouses in bright pink, minty greens, canary yellows and azure blues have become bestsellers,” he says. “Most of the brides have chosen to sport blouses with capes and half-sleeves this season,” he says.
Make it yours
“Brocades, tissue and chintz have pushed cotton and silk aside. Bell sleeves, oversized collars and boxy silhouettes have arrived along with flirty camisole, off-shoulder, ruffled sleeves and one-shoulder blouses; these are young, easy, breezy and fun,” says fashion designer Saaksha Parekh, of Saaksha and Kinni label.
“Fringe and tassel embellishments are in vogue. Striped blouses are also making a comeback. I feel the spunkiest reinvention of the blouse has more to do with how the blouse is paired.
Blouses have recently been teamed with contrast trenchcoats, scarves and belts. The off-shoulder and polo neck blouses have been game changers too. Both pushed the envelope and have proved that blouses can take on any kind of restructuring whilst staying true to their original form, both in the Indian and Indo-Western wardrobes. The incorporation of Western elements into the traditional blouse has made it all the more wearable and relevant,” she adds.
In India, weddings have always seen glossy and glamorous renditions of traditional saris in modern weaves. Modern metallic colours have arrived and have raced ahead of the traditional Indian hues. “This season brings with it metallic tones in copper, bronze, silver; solid but strong counterparts of the sari,” says fashion designer Krishna Mehta. “Delicate, ethereal sheers in metallics rule. Bra blouses are big this season — a bustier look that can be embellished — makes for a very chic and sensuous look. I feel sensuousness is vital here and brings in a degree of playfulness in a sari ensemble. Have generic blouses in your closet in different colours to team with different saris, depending on your occasion and mood. I have in my own wardrobe, blouses in every metallic colour, both embroidered and plain, that can be paired with different saris. But whatever you wear, wear it with confidence. Be yourself, and you will always look your best,” she says.
Team it right
When you mix and match colours and fabrics, it is an endless melee of designs. The golden rule is that there is no golden rule as far as the length, cut and style of the blouse goes. But the upper hug is imperative in making or breaking your look. A form-fitting short shirt can be worn with an innovatively draped sari. Remember the tinsel-spangled crochet blouses and the miniscule lycra blouses that burnt up the fashion circuit a few years ago? Neon is not in now, but velvet accents have made a comeback.
“Today, girls wear sexy crop tops or bralets with a pretty sari to lend it an edgy look which looks stunning. For a more bohemian feel, one can replace their conventional blouses with shirts or cotton tops. Even a sequinned mini skirt can be worn as a strapless, sexy blouse. It is a versatile garment and fits like a dream! I believe a simple gold-sequinned bra blouse is a must as it is a classic and simply unbeatable,” says fashion designer Nandita Mahtani.
“Muted metallic-coloured blouses such as dull gold, bronze and silver must be included in any wardrobe. They are elegant in terms of colour, and versatile enough to be paired with virtually any sari,” says Saaksha. “Collared blouses are also a staple piece. They can be dressed up with a sari or dressed down to suit a Western silhouette. If you are opting for embroidery, make sure you opt for the dull gold thread work only on the arms and not the neck, so that it can be teamed with almost any sari. Also, cotton silks are staple when buying blouses. They are formal in their look, whilst exuding ease and comfort to the wearer, and will never go out of style.”
With fashion weeks running beyond weeks, and inspiring a multitude of designs, endless options are battling for visibility, with designers creating versatile pieces every day.
“Embellishments always add a spunky touch to the blouse that you can wear with a sari, lehenga, dhoti pants, dhoti sari, maxi skirts and jeans. I feel bright and vivid colours are ideal for the summer months and contrary to traditional beliefs, look great on Indian skin tones,” sums up Manish.
NAIL THE STYLE
For a well-endowed frame
Avoid heavy embellishments, deep necks, sleeveless styles, large prints. Choose lighter fabrics in satins and georgettes, and go for a boat neck style with 3/4th sleeves. Opt for
elegant, smaller prints.
For a petite frame
Go for high necks and even-collared blouses. Push the envelope with bell sleeves, puffed sleeves, or the more traditional sleeveless look. Choose heavier fabrics in brocades, raw silks and velvets. Embellished blouses work well as they add volume. You can also opt for larger, brighter prints and colours.
For toned arms
Apart from the usual sleeveless blouse, wear a sheer, long-sleeved blouse in chiffon. Or go in for bell-sleeved blouses or thin noodle-strapped blouses.
For a broad back
Invest in some strappy blouses to show off some back rather than conceal it.
For broad shoulders
Wear broader necklines with short sleeves. Avoid padded blouses.
(by Saaksha Parekh from Saaksha and Kinni )