JOIN USMajestic fort on a mighty hill
Gudibande happens to us by default rather than design, inspired by the salubrious weather. We make this impulsive digression from our focus destination, Lepakshi, while driving on the Bengaluru-Hyderabad highway (National Highway 7).
Lush vineyards ridden with bunches of grapes flank the route as we enter the section of the highway leading to Nandi Hills, all the way up to Gudibande in Chikkaballapur district. As we spot a sign board pointing towards this ‘temple on a boulder’, we swerve left and head in the direction of the hillfort.
Abode of gods
We motor down on well-paved village roads flanked by lush fields to come upon the pristine Byrasagara Lake, shaped like the map of India. We take a break in our journey to enjoy the sight of birds taking dips in the lake, built by Byre Gowda, a chieftain after whom the waterbody is named. A couple of kilometres from here, we drive through an avenue of village homes to come upon the foothills of the conical Surasadmagiri on top of which sits the Gudibande Fort. The vibrant sounds of mantras being chanted in chorus, ring loud and clear at the foothills. We are told the Shiva temple in the fort premises is celebrating the annual Kumbabhisheka.
Surasadmagiri, translating to the abode of gods in Kannada, and the fort on its summit, are little-explored tourist sites. However, the place promises a short trekking experience and offers a day’s tranquil getaway from the bustle and cacophony of urban living. Once we reach the foothills of Gudibande, we begin our ascent through rugged stone steps of varied width and steepness. The way to the top is mainly through 500 odd steps, most of which are cemented on their surface.
The fort, which is small compared to other forts in Karnataka, was inspired by the Madhugiri fortress. It is a multi-level edifice that was built about 400 years ago, in the 17th century, by Byre Gowda, a local chieftain of Gudibande who ruled the place for only three years. Though his rule was for a very short period, he left behind an indelible legacy.
Byre Gowda, a Robin Hood of sorts, was a messiah for the poor who struck terror amongst the wealthy, and earned himself the sobriquet of havali (meaning ‘menace’) Byre Gowda. He was inspired by the fortress at Madhugiri. History records Gudibande to be a mini replica of Madhugiri fortress. Its several gates lead to different pathways and the edifice comprises ruined temples, caves sliced deep into the hillocks and many secret passages. Palpably, the complex network of inlet and escape routes served to help Byre Gowda’s soldiers during emergencies. The 19 rock ponds at different levels of the fort are suggestive of a perfect rainwater harvesting system having been in place. Byre Gowda, it is evident, was a visionary and far-sighted ruler, who, unfortunately did not have a heir to take forward his lineage.
We snake our way to the summit taking several breaks in between to savour our surrounds that is cloaked in quiet calm despite the day being Sunday. The temple chants, paradoxically, enhance the serene atmosphere. There are all ages of people, from kids to a 70-year-old grandmother, accompanied by her grandson, trekking to the temple. Except for the huffs and puffs we make as we trudge up, silence permeates all around. “It is only during festive occasions that this hill sees visitors and some activity,” informs one of the co-trekkers, a local from the Gudibande town.
The ramparts of the fort loom large before us as we approach the hilltop. It is evident that the edifice in its days of glory must have been imposing with its seven gateways. We get to see remnants of three of them in various states of preserve. We make our way to the top through underpasses created by boulders that rub shoulders on their vertices, and widen at the bottom to create a narrow passageway of sorts. Groups of kids picnic in the space created by these rocky outcrops and pose for photographs. Palpably, many young visitors to the hillock and fort have authenticated their visit here, inking their names on the boulders and walls.
A section of the ruined gate walls carries a sculpted idol of Hanuman in a niche. Lying strewn in the fort complex are the carving of a goddess and what looks like a grinding stone from ancient times. From some of the surviving turrets of the fort, we get a bird’s-eye view of the town of Gudibande and some of the hillocks surrounding it. Well defined sentry rooms dot the route at various levels of the fort. The last couple of reaches to the top include a sizeable plateau with rock bastions at its corners, and two mammoth rocks.
As we reach the summit, a hitherto clear blue sky becomes patchy with floating clouds that form strange ever-changing patterns, lending a mystic fabric to the surrounding landscape. A fierce and gusty wind threatens to lift us off the ground as we stand to savour our surrounds. The view from here is stunning and the town lies sprawled below us, a canvas painting that is picture-postcard perfect.
The Shiva shrine at the top is believed to be one of the 108 Jyotirlingas that Rama established in various parts of India, specifically in the region of the Dandakaranya forests where he wandered while in exile. The flagstaff in front of the shrine, which stands on a square base, has sculpted stone images of Nandi, Shanmukha and Shiva Linga.
Temple festivities
According to Gudibande Nagendra Bhat who is actively involved in the activities of the temple, the idols of Goddess Parvati and Shiva Linga, made from shaligrama stone, were installed by Sage Vishwamitra and Lord Rama respectively. While the sculptures in this temple, dedicated to Shiva and Shakti, being housed in two different shrines go back to millennia, the temple structure was built by Byre Gowda.
Kartika Somavara, Maha Shivaratri and the monthly Shivaratri in Krishna Paksha are especially observed and celebrated, while the annual Kumbabhisheka for Lord Shiva is the major festival on the fort. “On the second day of this event, which is the actual Kumbabhisheka day, we have thousands of visitors attending the puja, worshipping the Lord and anointing the Linga with water that they carry from the fort ponds,” says Nagendra.
While visiting Gudibande, one could also trek up Vidya Giri, Kurma Giri, Dhenu Giri and Varaha Giri that lie in its vicinity. For those who enjoy temple tours, the AdiNarayana Temple at Ellodu, Lakshmi Venkataramanaswamy Temple constructed by the Cholas, and the Narasimhaswamy Temple, a cave haven hewn out of solid rock, are close by.
Getting there
Gudibande is located at around 95 km from Bengaluru. Travel 85 km on National Highway 7 and take a left at Perasandra. Travel 12 km on village roads to reach the fort. Once you pass NH 7, there are no cafes or eateries on the road leading to Gudibande.