JOIN USUpcyle your way to no-waste style
In a world that is still churning out trendy throw-away fashion pieces at breakneck speed, the idea of upcycled and refashioned apparel can be seen as an anomaly. However, it is, in fact, an idea that many fashion designers are slowly warming up to. This is why many designers are resorting to upcycling fringe pieces of fabric and leftover threads to design products that are one-of-a-kind, handmade, and sustainable.
A part of the ‘zero-waste fashion’ movement, this type of upcycled fashion ensures that waste created is sustainably used. “Far too many fashion pieces end up in a landfill. Every year, thousands of tonnes of textiles are thrown away. As much as 95% of those clothes could have been reused or recycled,” believes Cecilia Brännsten, sustainability business expert, H&M. Approximately 15% to 20% of textiles are wasted in the designing and manufacturing stages. It is of little wonder, then, that many designers are working towards making their fashion lines more sustainable.
Waste no more
Known as “pre-consumer waste”, many designers across the country are using spill material and leftovers from garment factories to create intricate designs after witnessing the amount of fabric wastage. “We see value in the discarded materials and envision ways to re-adapt them to serve a purpose that it may have not originally been meant for,” says Mia Morikawa, creative director, 11.11/eleven eleven.
As a result, many of them create fashion pieces that are not only meaningful, but also those that are ethical and sustainable. In order to achieve this, designers are using a variety of fabric waste along with organically-grown natural fibres such as banana fibre and bamboo. For instance, 11.11/eleven eleven has created a line that has a mix of reclaimed plastic (which is embedded into the fabric using a loom) and kala cotton.
While one may think that this is difficult, it is in fact not. “Initially, it was tough to think and ideate about a product using upcycled materials, but now it’s as simple as drinking water,” says Siddhartha Upadhyaya, the designer behind the label August.
While this may be the case, it is important for designers to allow their consumers to invest in their story and sustainable philosophy. “Educating consumers is a massive part of this initiative — most people are unaware of where and how their clothes are made and that’s a large part of this problem as well,” says Beth Stewart, co-founder and executive director, Redress Raleigh, an online platform that nurtures independent designers.
To ensure that their consumers know all this, designers need to be transparent about who makes their clothes and where they source their materials from.
While designers may source the raw materials from the same place, the techniques vary. “Once we have the raw material, we upcycle and recycle the same with craftsmen using techniques like our signature patchwork, knitting of back fabrics and hand embroidery. These techniques help us give the existing fabrics a new and extended life,” says Kriti Tula of Doodlage.
However, the final product depends on the kind of fabrics that the designers have at hand. “We start conceptualising on what to upcycle or which product to make, after we see the kind of fabric waste we have. Sometimes, the fabrics are so limited that the end product is also conceived accordingly,” elaborates Paromita Bannerjee of the brand, Boro. To ensure that the whole brand is sustainable, designers also engage with traditional weavers. “We innovate at the loom stage and each of our raw materials are conceived at the sketch stage and then the ideas are translated into fabrics by our weaver clusters all across India,” says Paromita.
Sustainability factor
Additionally, the upcycled fabrics are made into clothes that last for several seasons and use classic silhouettes. While such clothes are often on the expensive side, it is an investment worth considering. However, many people may be hesitant to buy such products because of various reasons. “A lot of recycled or upcycled products look like ‘kabaad se jugaad’ and literally patched and joined together,” avers Paromita. “In cases like these, they would need to look at the finish of the product they’re buying. Just because a product is made from waste, does not mean the product needs to look like it.”
With people becoming more aware of the fashion industry’s negative impact on the environment and unethical nature of the clothing created, it is of little wonder that designers are taking the sustainable path. This has led to many consumers seeking out something that is unique or unconventional, which the upcycled clothes offer. “The upcycled range is for people with a global aesthetic. It is for an audience who understands that handmade and handwoven clothes and upcycled and recycled fabrics are luxuries that should be cherished,” offers Paromita.
With this niche market expanding, upcycling is not just a trend, but it is also the need of the hour, especially in a time when resources are reducing and consumption is constantly on the rise.