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A catch worth the effort

Last Updated 04 September 2017, 18:34 IST

The mention of this fish intrigues people — both fishermen and consumers. Found in the flowing waters, this is one fish that is unique in many ways — appearance, behaviour and even the way it’s caught. It is the havbatti fish. It is a popular fish variety in Mandya region. The word havbatti refers to its length and shape that reminds one of the snakes. It is also known as havmeenu, hambatti, havbatti or bambu. This fish is considered tastier compared to other species found in the region. Due to its appearance and softness, it is considered as the beans of non-vegetarians. It is not bony and doesn’t get overcooked easily. Folk medicine practitioners often advise women to consume this after delivery. Accordingly, fishermen get orders from rural houses where a woman has given birth to a baby. All these aspects have made havbatti popular among fish eaters.

A havbatti fish can weigh up to a maximum of 750 gm. The fish grows to a length of one and a half feet and has an arrow-shaped head. The narrow shape of the head allows the fish to stretch into the rocky pockets on the sides of the streams and feed on worms and fish larvae.

Bamboo baskets

Unlike the common practice, this fish cannot be caught through angling or by using fishing nets. A locally made bamboo basket called kodape is used to catch the havbatti fish. It is not an easy task to weave these kodapes. Bamboo is cut into strips and these strips are woven in such a pattern that havbatti fish can’t slip and escape from it. There are experts (mostly fishmermen) in these villages who weave these cylindrical, pitcher plant-like kodapes that also resemble the musical instrument, mridangam. It takes about a day’s time to weave one kodape. A kodape can hold up to three kg of fish. Though these intricately woven kodapes are sturdy, they last only for seven to eight months as they are placed inside the waters for most of the time.

There is no doubt about the skill and patience involved in fishing. But in the case of havbatti, the requirement is a little more. The fish swims against the flow and the kodapes are placed along the flow, in places where the flow is normal. On lucky days, they get a good catch, up to four kg of fish while on some days they don’t get even a single fish. Experienced fishermen feel that the fish harvest is more in the months of August and September. The fish costs Rs 150 to 200 per kg. “The fish has demand both in rural and urban areas. We can make some earning if we move around from street to street selling at the doorsteps of the consumers,” says Nagayya of Mahadevapura in Srirangapattana who has been catching havbatti fish for the past four decades.

Another aspect that makes this type of fish unique is its habitat. While other favourites like katla, rahoo, jilebi, korama, balli gende are available in both flowing and stagnant waters, havbatti fish is found only in flowing rivers and streams.

The bait

The kodapes are placed for hours together in the right place to catch the fish. At the inner end of the kodape, earthworms or some other insects are placed in a coconut shell and covered with cloth.  A heavy stone is placed just inside the mouth of the kodape to make it stay in the place. The kodapes are normally kept in places where the water level is between knee and chest. 

The havbatti fish get attracted by the smell of the bait and enter this trap. The shape and pattern of the kodape is such that once entered, the fish can’t escape from there. Interestingly, except kalkuri (a type of small fish), other fish species don’t enter this trap. Sometimes water snake makes way into this kodape. Since it is not venomous, fishermen are not bothered about it.

A fish species that has many interesting practices linked to it and occupies an important place in the culinary heritage of Mandya region is not attracting the younger generation. “I am in this occupation for the last 40 years. There have been ups and downs. When there is a good catch I sell it to the local hotels, and when the catch is average, I sell it door to door. I weave the kodapes myself and am well-versed with it. But my children are not interested in this activity. Forget kodape, they don’t even know how to catch fish using nets,” rues 70-year-old Nagayya.Despite this, many continue the tradition of catching the fish.

(Translated by AP)

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(Published 04 September 2017, 14:09 IST)

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